as title says... im gettn about 25psi with super thick oil at about 1100rpm

chuzz,
Matt

The light stays off, that's all that matters.

I think it would be a 2-5psi switch on the light, so the the pressure is somewhere above that.

Mine is over 30 hot, usually around 40psi unless I've done a fast run.
BUT- I'm running a 9/16" ball bearing in there, not the original valve. The original valves leak oil at idle because they never seat properly, and this drops the pressure. The ball seals much better.
There is a thread here somewhere on how to do it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm getting better than 70 psi at idle (can I haver a new poll option then?) ....but the engine has less than 1/2 an hour on it from new, I fancy it will reduce to a more reasonable level in an hour or so...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

When hot I have 50psi of Oil Pressure at idle.

Matt

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there's no option for more than 40 ....

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I idle at 40psi and driving is around 60psi.


Is this why sometimes at idle my pressure wavers from 35-40psi

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

normaly around 50 here as I have the 9/6th ball also
If it drops below while driveing I check the oil level

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

i think the reason why my oil pressure is alittle low is the spacer between the block and oil pump (being an auto) may be leaking. is there any way to prevent this from happening?



My bad about the no 40psi or more option i wrote it but mayy have forgotten to add it..

sorry guys

Use a gasket behind the spacer, put Loctite 515 or 518 on the gasket and outside of the spacer,IF it's an auto 1275 block converted to manual.
If it's on an auto box still, there is no spacer.

Anyway anything over 15psi is plenty at idle.. as long as it has 50+ when revving it's OK, don't sweat it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yes it is converted to Manual.

mine sits at 50psi at idel and
75 psi at speed

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just connected up my oil pressure gauge (another excuse to take it for a drive )

when hot..

idle: 50 psi
@revs: 75 psi

The seat cut in the block and on the relief v/v poppet are very wide and do not seal well. I have a reamer that recuts the seat in block and I make a new v/v poppet with machined seat to fit block. The poppet is longer and a better sliding fit. Instead of having O.D full length, I machine a undercut to reduce the poppet from sticking in block.
Also check that the hole that dumps the oil when v/v is open does not have sharp edge on it and that the dump hole behind spring is clear.
Check that the spring is not bending under compression[check for wear marks on side of spring] and jambing in block.
When I changed to Honda head using standard mini pump and relief v/v the pressure went to 80-100 lbs at idle[closer tolerances in head and no cam in block] and I used a ball instead of poppet. The ball pushed back and jambed in dump hole, so replaced it with better working full flow assembly. The spring has been changed [different spring rate]and the relief v/v spring has been set-up with a adjusting screw instead of plug.
I now have idle pressure at 50lbs and full revs at 80lbs hot or cold. This can be adjusted easily if there is any pressure drop from pump delivery.
I wish I had done this on the last eng as the relief v/v sticking caused the cylinder head valve to hydraulic, exit the exhaust and stuffed the eng.

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

50 psi hot idle

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K