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 Post subject: Blown Head Gasket
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 12:06 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2008 2:22 pm
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Location: Northside, Brisbane
Hey guys anyone got any tips for replacing my head gasket/want to help for $$/Beer?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 12:09 pm 
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998cc
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Location: wollongong
get a manual

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 12:19 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Rockingham - Collie WA
My tips for new players:
1. Follow the manual step by step
2. Clean the gasket faces properly (gasket remover spray is great) with rags stuffed in the bores
3. Fit a new bypass hose to the water pump BEFORE putting the head back on.
4. Don't mix up the order of the push rods.
5. Borrow a torque wrench if you don't have one.
6. The gasket is marked with TOP for a reason.

Might take you a little while the first time, but it's easy after that and an essential mini owners skill :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 12:32 pm 
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1275cc
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use paper towel instead of rags. you can't get a strand caught in your engine, and if there is any leftover it will burn away, instead of getting tangled up...

as stated, follow the manual, once you've done it you'll see it's not so hard/daunting.

make sure all mating surfaces are SPOTLESSLY CLEAN!!! make them shiny :D

OH and if you don't have a manual, get one. you will need it very frequently

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 12:39 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 5:03 pm
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Location: Out in the shed cleaning up my own mess.
Dylan's Clubby wrote:

make sure all mating surfaces are SPOTLESSLY CLEAN!!! make them shiny :D



And perfectly flat. Check them with a straightedge & feeler guage.
Also, if your nuts (cylinder head that is) do not torque up properly, your studs are probably stretched. Nothing is forever (despite what women will try to con you into :lol: )

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 1:28 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Loosen all the rockers and readjust when head has been refitted, head gaskets vary in thickness and these clearances will never be the same, even if you don't mix the pushrods up..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 1:37 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Adelaide, SA
What are the consequences of loosing the order of the pushrods? Does it matter if you use brand new lifters as you would in an engine rebuild rather than just a gasket change?

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 1:44 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Rockingham - Collie WA
Just more time spent getting the tappet clearances right.

If you have the pushrods in the same order with the same new gasket, then the gaps should be ptetty close to spot on.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 1:49 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Adelaide, SA
Yeah that's all I thought, that's ok.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 2:49 pm 
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Don't get a copper competition* head gasket, they are rubbish.


* the competition refers to how many head gaskets you can blow in a year. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 3:03 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Morris 1100 wrote:
Don't get a copper competition* head gasket, they are rubbish.


* the competition refers to how many head gaskets you can blow in a year. :mrgreen:

Once upon a time these had asbestos in 'em and were a good gasket.
Now....... :roll: :evil:
Best smallbore one about at the moment seems to be the ACL Monotorque one. They are hard to blow even with turbo boost.

Best bigbore one IMO is the Payen BK450 `black' so-called Metro Turbo one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 3:08 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Go easy on the thermostat bolts or studs if you have a yen to removing them. They tend to get fairly corroded in, take your time and use a penetrating oil. Don't over tighten any of the studs or bolts when you put them back in either.

A short enjoyable job quickly dissolves into a massacre if you snap a stud or strip a thread...

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All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 4:18 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2008 2:22 pm
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Location: Northside, Brisbane
Thanks heaps guys!! great info!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 4:37 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Adelaide, SA
Mick wrote:
Go easy on the thermostat bolts or studs if you have a yen to removing them. They tend to get fairly corroded in, take your time and use a penetrating oil. Don't over tighten any of the studs or bolts when you put them back in either.

A short enjoyable job quickly dissolves into a massacre if you snap a stud or strip a thread...


Been there done that...

Old thread in the head, thermostat stud a little tight. Suddently snaps off flat on the head. Try and easy out, get that stuck in there. After drilling and fitting a helicoil, time and money is wasted over a silly and simple thing.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 4:54 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 7:23 am
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Location: Sunny Shine Coast, Qld Australia
Would people recommend copper antisieze or go the whole hog and get stainless studs?

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