How do you tell if the pivot bearing/bush needs replaceing?

Pulled the rear sub frame out today (to get the new brake line in and may as well do everything else ) The trailing arms move quite freely - no binding/grittyness or slop. Once the shockers were disconnected and the brakelines and handbrake cables there was full smooth movement so was wondering what would tell you pull the pivot and redo it all?

By the way all the subframe bolts came out easy as - no rusty threads. The subframe was was perfectly square with all the right measurements even with a dent and weld in the rear cross member. Wonder if the rear and had been repaired sometime?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

If you can wobble the arm in and out the bushes are worn. (easiest to do on car.. )

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

The Best way to make sure is to remove the trailing arm pivot Pin and Check, They are almost always Worn On the end That Has the Roller Bearings Fitted

If there is any wear on the shaft, I'd change the bearing and the bush too.
They don't wear much if lubricated often, sadly this is often not the case...
Regular greasing is really all that keeps water and muck out of the assembly.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Which way do I knock out the pin - or doesn't it matter?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Either way, it is parallel.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OK Pulled both pins - both are slightly essentric along the entire length so must have been made that way: centre of pin and bearing end both measure 0.811(5) - 0.814 while the bush end measures 0.811-0.812

The bush end of the pin has obvious shine at the bush location and there is a 'grove' corresponding to a grease feed hole that is visible on one side of the pin but disappears at 180° due to the slight essentric nature of the pin.

Bearings are well greased and there is fresh/plenty of grease evident.

Would you change or leave as is?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Quite simply, return the pin into the bearing, if there is enough slop evident to cause the pin to move around and throw the arm geometry out, then I would replace it.

If you are keen to do it, drop me a PM and you may use my reamer.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Just rigged up the DTI and measured up/down and back/foreward - no play either end so I guess I'll leave it as is.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

If no chatter marks or gouges at the inner (needle bearing) end, just grease the sucker good and it'll last `forever'.
The ones in my `70 Matic are still original, not loose yet, they get greased real often.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.