so my car is at the mechanics for a tune up and hes just rang me and told me that he has it running beutifully but soon as he revs it 12 volts goes to the points and chews my points out so he has no idea that it does it so what he is going to do is put a balister between the coil and dizzy to cut the voltage down so it doesnt burn out my points....has any one else had this problem? and does any one know why this is happining or betta what causes it?

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1964 smooth roof panel van
1967 Mk 1 X-Police cooper s
1970 mini k
1975 leyland

Just turn the coil upside down and read the numbers on the bottom. If it says `12V' you don't need a ballast resistor.
If it says `use with resistor', you do. I suspect this is the case..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

g'day doc thanks for replying....... it does say 12V but is still putting out too much volts to the points once it is revved and there are 4 different coils to swap around and what not so its not that the coil is haddit. the mechanic says he has ever only seen it on 2 or 3 cars...

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1964 smooth roof panel van
1967 Mk 1 X-Police cooper s
1970 mini k
1975 leyland

thats a quote from your last topic you made

your points are designed to run on 12 volts and unless someone has fitted your car with a resistor coil which as the good Doc has told you to read the bottom numbers to see if it is then your mechanicis is wrong, now go and do what the miniman said and change the condensor

read again

your points are designed to run 12 volts it is the condensor that causes them to burn out

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

Just trust the mechanic, he obviously knows his stuff.
Don't listen to the so called experts on this forum.

Oh hang on, that is what you did in the last thread.

Does your mechanic work for Kmart?

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Your silliness has been noted.

The ballast resistor does not go between the coil and the points.
If the coil is designed to be used with a resister it goes on the positive side of the coil so a lesser voltage than 12v is supplied to the coil when the engine is running, ie the ignition switch is in the run position. When the key is turned to the crank position the full 12v is supplied to the coil from another supply wire. This provides a more positive spark at start up.

Dave

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This is true except people who fit aftermarket ballasts usually don't bother with the 2nd supply.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Wow, all the cost and hassle of setting it up, with none of the benefits

All it takes is an extra wire from the 12volts supply to the starter solenoid's coil.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

True that Kevin
In carters post he says that his mechanic is going to install a resistor between the coil and the distributor. WTF?
I was just trying to explane what the resistor is used for and where and why it is used

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In the last post he said it was a new condensor. could it be the wrong voltage condensor??

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Don't trust the condensor, I and others on here have had new condensors fail with in a very short time. Me 20 minutes.
So I would change it for another one just to rule it out, but once again the mechanic would know this I guess
Cheers Pete

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A recent study found the average Aussie walks about 900 miles a year
Another study found Aussies drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year
That means, on average, Australians get about 41 miles per gallon

Kind of makes you proud to be an AUSSIE

Quote- "In the last post he said it was a new condensor. could it be the wrong voltage condensor??"

No, a condenser's electrical value is pretty standard. just the size & mounting detail varies between dizzys.
Its purpose is to absorb the back emf which occurs when the points open.
This reduces burning at the points and gives a stronger spark at the plugs.
It could be a dud, lots of sub-standard electrical parts are being sold now. Even in well known brands like B****.
I have to say that usually if it's a dud the engine either won't run, or runs very poorly.

I no longer have these problems, I binned all my Lucas points dizzys years ago.
An advance curve modified Nissan Pulsar dizzy = hard to beat. No points, no condensers, no worries.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You Are Corrrect Doc, I truly worry where this is going with some Parts today, I have to say that I have the least amount of trouble with intermotor condensors, points and dist caps, I have had condensors from other suppliers fail in a very short time, It makes it very hard to know what brand to buy