Starting to notice more and more rust bubbles coming through on cryo, for instance along the roof gutter, rear beaver panel, and also what i can best describe as 'cracks' or lines of rust, along the body lines near the rear windows.

Although what I am really worried about, bit of cryo's history here, she was in a fairly major accident before i bought her, as in, hit a 4wd and then slammed head on into a power pole, effectively writing her off. Im pretty sure that the po hasnt done to much prep work, and has used rusty panels, as i found out when i had my accident where the old lady ran the red light, as the guard underneath the paint was rusty and had alot of bog over the top. On the roof gutter, it looks like the rust is pretty deep, and the paint is just flaking off, i will try to post photos within the next day, but heres my question,

whats the best way to go about fixing this, or is there anyone in particular i can take it to to be looked at and give me a quote?

Thanks,
Robbie

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'73 clubby s "cryo" - sold
Operation Evil Sesame Street!

if you have a mig and know how to weld then your job will be easy, if not then its gunna cost ya. you have no idea what the previous owner has done and the only way to really know is to strip it back to metal and see all the nastyness first hand.

ditto.... or assume it's all rooted underneath and start looking for a good shell to swap over

I'd be attacking anything cracking or bubbline with a screwdriver, flick all the bog off, but be prepared for the worst

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

i'm with simon sounds like the body is going to be in pretty bad shape. stripe back the rusty bits and spots where you think there is a bit of bog with a wire wheel and go form there.

cheers dan.

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Cheers Dan

FIRST COMES THE MONEY, THEN COMES THE POWER, THEN COMES THE WOMEN.!!

Buy another car (given its history) - save yourself the stress, & spend your time swapping the mechanicals.

Attempting a fix is most likely a WOFTAM.

Been down that path, with a Moke resto. At the end of the day, conclusion reached was "if I had only known".

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

took me a while.... Waste Of Family Time And Money - what if he's not married and doesn't have kids??

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Bit of turbo lag?

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

hehe, nah, 19, no kids thank christ , and no, only a girlfriend. Don't really want to reshell her, but if its going to work out cheaper in the long run, then i might as well do it thing is though, its my daily, and i dont have another car i can use whilst its of the road. I can weld ok at the moment, but theres a family friend who is a metal fabricator/boilermaker, so welding wont be a problem i don't think.

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'73 clubby s "cryo" - sold
Operation Evil Sesame Street!

if welding aint a problem then use your spare time to wire wheel the dodgey areas back to metal and sort out what actually need to be done. get your mate to weld up new bits and hit it with some epoxy for the time being. when its all done you can get a few cans made up to match your colour and you can blend the new paint into the old paint with a cut and polish. theres plenty of vids on youtube and http://www.autobody101.com/forums/ is an american site that will answer most questions you have about bodywork

You've also got to consider that major rust repairs mostly cannot be completed and back on the road within a weekend, hence another reason to maybe consider re-shelling. Nor can re-shelling of course, but at least you can work on and paint the spare shell in your own time without affecting your daily driver until you're ready to do the swap.

Rust bubbles and rust lines certainly indicate something much worse underneath - lines usually means bog.

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If you want to stop the rot but don't want to get into major body works you can grind the paint off around the area, treat the rust and seal it again using epoxy enamel or something similar. It might not look great but it will stop the rust going any further.

Pete

I had 2 cars on the road through uni - a brick and a MK1 escort - I used the escort when the brick was having surgery

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Just as a point of interest , is the car painted in 2pac?
Just about to paint my '67, & was very strongly advised not to use 2pac paint as this is exactly what what happens.

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1967 Morris Mini Deluxe
1927 Austin 7

exactly what i was thinking, it will take awhile to complete, thats why i need to have something else lined up to get me from a to b in the meantime. Checked out that website that DTrain put up, some useful info there, im just worried about what i might uncover, but i guess its gotta be done. The plan was originally to drive cryo whilst i work on getting my round nose completed.



Im really not sure to be honest, the paint is how it was when i bought the car, at an educated guess id say no, it looks like its just acrylic paint done at home, kinda suits the rest of the car, looks like theyve done the dodgy on it, restore it as cheaply as possible

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'73 clubby s "cryo" - sold
Operation Evil Sesame Street!