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TonyE
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 11:14 pm 
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is there a specific way to connect the cable from the distributor to the coill. Is ther a polarity issue
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 6:29 am 
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Yes, you will blow the dizzy if wrong.
Blue wire is [-], B/W wire is [+]. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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kazjim
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 8:07 am 
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"I set them so they don't quite kick back (much!) on starting."

Kev, mine is now timed for Max Power and Minimum detonation (actually NONE!!) - no i dont know where it is timed to... seems i dont have a timing mark on this pulley and i cant get to the one on the flywheel anymore......

BUT when starting it sounds like a flat battery.... one.... two.... Fire.. Vroom !

Could i fit one of your patented ignition cutouts ? - which lead should it go to ?

J

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 8:22 am 
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You need a switch in the white wire from ign switch to fusebox, or the white wire from fusebox to coil. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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supercharged 850
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 11:13 pm 
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Would this be an ignition cutout... for flat changes???? :wink: :wink:

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1400Clubman
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 7:22 pm 
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I picked up from a wreckers a D4R85-16. I haven't seen anything about the last two numbers? It is a nissan dizzy off an N12 manual 1.6. I am assuming it has the 12*.

I am wanting to fit it to my 1400 clubman. Has anyone seen this and know if it is the right one?

Dan
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EST-071
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 7:28 pm 
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the 16 means that it has 16 deg of advance. 8)

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Mini Mad
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 8:20 pm 
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supercharged 850 wrote:
Would this be an ignition cutout... for flat changes???? :wink: :wink:


Definately not for flat changes :wink:

I think it's there for starting, you can spin the motor up and then switch the ignition on, and also to kill the motor/help stop overrun..

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 9:02 pm 
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I put the kill switch in mine after I killed about 3 starter pinions in a row.
The last one the lost teeth (2) got banged around by the clutch backplate, & broke the PCV vent in the clutch housing... filled the clutch with oil. :x

Trouble is, the Pulsar dizzy being electronic, fires on the 1st upstroke, with a fair bit of static advance (~16* on mine) it can `stall' the starter. Repeating this operation often makes the pinion shed teeth.... :shock:
So, I fitted a kill switch, a 550CCA Exide battery, and a factory (UK) rebuilt starter. No more problem. 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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supercharged 850
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 12:22 am 
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Image Thats not good.... so theres some MORE things I gotta add to the "To Do" list...

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CLUBMAN
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 3:38 pm 
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At $35 a gemini starter motor,ill just take my chances and keep a spair one already to go in the shed..would it be a little less prone to happen with the smaller advance one?

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 3:56 pm 
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Probably OK with a GeMini starter. Lucas pinions are a bit weak.. too thin.
I can't use a GeMini- got an S oil cooler in a roundnose.
If I blow another pinion, I'll maybe go get a NEW pre-engaged `Revolution' starter like Mini Mad has, but need to check room first. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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CLUBMAN
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 4:57 pm 
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so you have to hit the key,get it spinning then flick the switch and give the ignition power?spunds like a pritty cool idear to stop people stealing your car

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BRICKWORX RACING
872-874 South Rd
Edwardstown
SA 5039
PH: 8297 9494
FAX: 8297 7133
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kazjim
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 4:58 pm 
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Doc, have a look at mine on Saturday, but I've got longer hoses and the cooler sits on the radiator side... the Far hose snugs up around the altenator and the other hose comes around the Dizzy....
Now I have heaps of room for my "Extra Radiator" :twisted:

Still, not enough room for an Intercooler though. . . . :(

J

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 8:46 pm 
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CLUBMAN wrote:
so you have to hit the key,get it spinning then flick the switch and give the ignition power?spunds like a pritty cool idear to stop people stealing your car


Yep that's a side benefit. Along with a few other `immobilizers'... 8)

BTW I use a toggle switch as it's cooler than a push-pull. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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