Hi all,

I've finally managed to get my car painted.
Sprayed it Tasman Blue Acrylic.

What I want to know now so I don't stuff it up is what is the right way to go about polishing it to get a good finish?

Also what products have people found to be the best?

I've been working on my 63 850 for years and it's taken me a crap load of work to get it to this stage and I'd greatly appreciate any help and advice so I don't make a mess of things now.

Many thanks for any help.

Cheers.

Mal.

I used 1500 and then 2000 grit (wet or dry)to get the peel out. Depending on how much paint there is on there in the first place will dictate how much of the peel you can get rid of..

once that was done I just used a generic cutting compound on a wool buff.

Use a bit of water to keep the buff damp...

I went as far as putting masking tape on all the corners so i didnt burn through with the buff pad.

Once you get the bulk of it done finish cutting by hand.

Dont put anything on it with wax in it until you are happy with it. If you have to touch anything up wax will cause some real heart aches.

I am sure others will chime in with the "best" way to do it. This is how I done it and it worked. Debating anything about acrylic on here is like pissing in a sea of piss anyway.

_________________

I used the same method as Mr Dunger.
My mini got 8 coats everywhere and an extra 4 along seams and edges.
Only difference i used 2 grades of polish, the finish is brilliant .

_________________
Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

The only thing I'd add to the above is to be careful which polishes you use for ongoing maintenance. I find the less abrasive liquid canubra (eg Bowdens) to be excellent and not too aggressive; they remove less paint.

_________________
1958 Morris Minor 1000 - "Nigel"

Wait 3 months from when your car was sprayed before putting wax on it other wise you can have quite a few issues.

In regards to polishes I've used a kit that has 2 pads and a litre of polish, has a dvd about how to use it and some cloths in it as well, all I needed to get was a buffer that you can get for about $70 at supercheap. Works very well, I also used it to get some deep scratches out of my folks car last weekend. You can find details here: https://polishandwax.com/shop/products/SYSTEM-ONE-Pro-Kit.html

I placed a rather "large" order with them a little while ago and have a couple of kits if you're interested, price is $90.

_________________

i like the idea of how u put extra coats on your edges and seams Tombo Very good idea. Thanks. Im still waiting to throw my second full coast on the car bonnet and bootlid first coat on the doors and number plate flap. edit forgot to add im waiting for good weather days and not rainy days. do u think it is a good idea if in throwing paint on When it is a rainy or Hazey rain speckle day? im painting under the house no booth setup.

Regularily drain your compressor and since you cant avoid humidity (unless you have a de-humidifier) try to avoid painting when water is falling from the sky.
My mates charger has tiny water pimples in the paint from moisture.
My booth was just drop sheets taped up in the shed
Turned out good though, maybe 4-5 bits of dust landed on it.

_________________
Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

Handy hint. I use a spray bottle with water in to keep the buffing pad damp and to spray on the paint while I'm working.

Al

I've used Meguiars products on all my cars for years. Very happy with the results.

_________________
Cheers,
Rod.
______________________________
'63 Morris 850 (Old Secondhand CAR)

Hi all,

Thanks for everyones help and advice.

Think I'll give the paint a bit more time to harden before I try to polish it as if I stuff it up I'll cry like a girl.

Cheers.

Mal.

Leave it out in the sun on the weekend as this will speed things up for you.

_________________

Will do,

Knowing my luck one of the kids will drag a bike down the side of it!

Will post some pics once it's polished up if I'm not too ashamned of the finish, if there is a finish left.