Hi,

I need to replace the universal joints and have been told you can get nylon ones instead of the rubber. Does anyone know who sells them here?

They were made by Quinton Hazell years ago but are unobtainium now, unless someone has a stash hidden.
The U/joint inside it is a Triumph TR6 or Austin 1800, if anybody wants to set up and make the nylon outer cups.
I have seen them with steel cups too. Many moons ago.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Brad
I dont think there ever was a nylon U/J but there was a nylon adaptor that allowed you to fit a standard universal joint to the shape of the hook joint fitted to standard mini drive shafts. In the old days they were sold as a complete UJ kit but again as far as I know they are not available. You can buy the standard U/J new - Hardy Spicer No is K5-L4R. It fits a number of newer cars so you shouldnt have any problems sourcing it.
I suggest you contact John Smidt as a possible source of nylon adaptors
If you have access to a machine workshop he may have one you could copy
In desperation I once machined up 8 of these things ( you need 8 per car) but you need a lathe and a milling machine with a tilting head to do it and it takes forever
If you do do it ,it forever fixes the decaying rubber that emerges from all the oil from the oil leaks

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Mk1 Cooper S
Mini K Rally car

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

The part number for the Quinton Hazel ones was QL5000.

The nylon cups were not sold separately, they were always sold as a complete uni-joint.

Repco used to make some in Australia with black cups.



These were also sold by Leyland as better quality unis for Minis and Morris 1100s.

If you want to machine some cups up, I have drawings (not mine)
One drawing is for steel cups (easier to make, no milling-) the other for nylon cups (a bastard)- PM me with your email address..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I wonder if it would be more viable to get the cups moulded? That is how QH and Repco did them.
Anyone have any ideas?

The Repco style is a lot easier to make than the QH style. They don't have that extra locating lug.

Doc
Its the locating lug around 50% of the circumference that is the pig of a thing to make. If we could just use a lathe in one operation - much easier.
The Repco black ones must surely have the same critical dimensions as the QH ones. If thats the case then I shall make a set . I have a number of old QH plastics so I have the critical dimensions Can you confirm that this is the case.
Are the steel ones basically the same shape?

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Mk1 Cooper S
Mini K Rally car

Steel ones basically the same except no locating lug on them.
PM me your email address and I'll give you drawings.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Having sold many 100's of the QH joints they were far superior than the Repco units.
The extra flange on the QH item was a major design advantage.

If the u bolt because loose on the Repco unit whilst driving the nylon end cap would then come off and often cause considerable damage.

QH added the flange to stop this.

We deal directly with QH in the UK and have been advised that they stopped making QL5000 because of lack of demand.

I was thinking the same thing re those Repco ones.
I reckon steel caps would be more durable, you could do the U-bolts up a bit tighter without distortion.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The end cap coming loose is the problem I found with the first set I made with nylon caps. I tried some out of alumin, but when I fitted them to the car I found that if the end clearance across the uni was spot on , then if the axle had the slightest run out the uni would bind-up as it rotated.
The rubber allows for any slight axle run-out as it's flexable. Same problem with a tail-shaft that has a slight bend in it.
The nylon is harder with less flex ,but they work on the "U"bolts and eventually come loose.
With the jigs I made ,I spin the yoke in the lathe and cut a groove towards the outside of the yoke. The nylon cap has a mating ridge machined on it to fit in this groove. If the bolts do work slightly loose the cap is still held into place by the ridge. These have been on a car for 18months now and had a real flogging and are still O.K.

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