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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 4:35 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: wasleys S.A.
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Due to the number of blokes after the uni drives I had for sale I have decided to make some.
These take the same uni as the QH type, spicer K5-L4R and price I was quoted from CBC bearings is around $20 each.
The caps are made from either alumin or nylon and both types have shoulder to locate the "U"bolt
I can supply just caps or complete with uni's
Details of prices are going to be listed in forsale section. If you want a set then please let me know what type so that I can run a batch off.

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Last edited by david rosenthal on Mon Apr 06, 2009 4:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 4:37 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Geez David, you should stop it. You make us all look useless ;)

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 4:43 pm 
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1098cc
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Nah, just trying to help blokes out. Had many after the set so I will make some

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 5:10 pm 
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I is a mookenik
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whats the benefit of the alloy ones compared to the rubber?

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 5:18 pm 
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tinymorris1969 wrote:
whats the benefit of the alloy ones compared to the rubber?

They are not allergic to Mini oil. So last heaps longer.8)
They have a normal needle bearing U/J inside.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 5:25 pm 
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would they cause damage to the block ???

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 6:01 pm 
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tinymorris1969 wrote:
would they cause damage to the block ???


in the event of some sort of explosion, yes...
They should not be in contact with the block, or the bottom of the gearbox (as they often do)

They look fantastic!

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 7:25 pm 
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reason why im asking is cause it will be a cheaper option then going for pot joints

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 7:33 pm 
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sure will be cheaper, grab a pair.
They are much like Cooper S Hardy Spicer ones, but shaped to fit early drive yokes.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 10:23 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: wasleys S.A.
The alloy won't rot from the oil, or crack from the heat like rubber ones. The only thing is to make sure that the yokes are not too knocked around as happens to them when the rubber ones wear and let go. In most cases the bolts should be OK to re-use but I presume that you can get replacement bolts. Doc or some one may know more about tha t than me.
I am trying to get the uni's with a grease nipple fitted. The original ones did not have a way of greasing.
With these the ends do not stick out past the yokes like the rubber one do, and they have a lump of steel in them. That's what does the damage when they let go

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 10:46 pm 
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David,,, yet again i must say,,, you`re an insane Legend :-)

well done & i`m sure you will be swamped with orders,,, best set up the CNC to pump out a number of them :-)

&&&&---> tell me you don`t turn them down one at a time on a manual lathe???,,, please don`t say you do,,, Please??? .... If you do then you really are a crazy man :-)

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 11:21 pm 
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1098cc
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[quote="TheMiniman"

&&&&---> tell me you don`t turn them down one at a time on a manual lathe???,,, please don`t say you do,,, Please??? .... If you do then you really are a crazy man :-)[/quote]

Well I am dumb, stupid , idiotic, senseless, a moron, brainless, mentally impared and other atributes I can not think off just now.
I turn them on a engine lathe , and mill them individually. SO I guess I can add crazy to my list of mental deficiencies :D :D :D

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:08 am 
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david rosenthal wrote:
[quote="TheMiniman"

&&&&---> tell me you don`t turn them down one at a time on a manual lathe???,,, please don`t say you do,,, Please??? .... If you do then you really are a crazy man :-)


Well I am dumb, stupid , idiotic, senseless, a moron, brainless, mentally impared and other atributes I can not think off just now.
I turn them on a engine lathe , and mill them individually. SO I guess I can add crazy to my list of mental deficiencies :D :D :D[/quote]

ah ha!!!! Now i know why we get on so well :-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:13 am 
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1098cc
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Location: wasleys S.A.
TheMiniMan wrote:
david rosenthal wrote:
[quote="TheMiniman"

&&&&---> tell me you don`t turn them down one at a time on a manual lathe???,,, please don`t say you do,,, Please??? .... If you do then you really are a crazy man :-)


Well I am dumb, stupid , idiotic, senseless, a moron, brainless, mentally impared and other atributes I can not think off just now.
I turn them on a engine lathe , and mill them individually. SO I guess I can add crazy to my list of mental deficiencies :D :D :D


ah ha!!!! Now i know why we get on so well :-)[/quote]
A little insanity can get you a long way :D I might even get a "mentally disabled" pension one day :) :) No more parking problems :D

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 3:22 pm 
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Out of interest, these are just the caps of the joints right? Where would I go about finding the cross that these go on?

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