I think I need to change the front wheel bearings as there is a little bit of play in them. Well one anyway so I may as well do both. I have 2 new tapered wheel bearing kits ready to go. I was just wondering if there are any special tools that I might need that I haven't thought of. Are the bearings a press fit? Will I need a press?

I was hoping to get it done by Saturday for the long drive out to the Dyno day.

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Simon
Daily Driver - Yellow Devil 76 Clubman
Restoration Project - Primer grey 66 Morris Mini Deluxe

Simon, I did mine in JAM. I used a BFH, alluminum dolly to tap in the outer bearing shells, and Kev ground the inner race's off the drive flanges for me. The inner race should be a nice slide fit over the drive flange. If it isn't, clean up the inner flange shaft with some sandpaper.

Pretty easy really, once you know what to do.

EDIT: I used a huge flat blade screwdriver, that has the tip broken off, to tap the outer bearing shells from the hub. Some @sshole broke that screwdriver when I was a 1st year apprentice...the funny thing is that it gets more use as a butchering tool than it ever would have as a screwdriver! Makes a great paint stirrer too

Greasing them is the messiest part, but I will let everyone know how to do it without mess. Put enough grease in a plastic bag and drop the bearing in it. Twist the bag off above the grease and bearing and squeeze the grease into the bearing. Takes about 10 seconds with no mess and you know the grease has gotten right into the bearing. There are special devices to do this job but a plastic bag is cheaper.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

well well well.....I will definitley remember that one!

But getting the grease under your nails, and into the pores of your skin is half the fun.....NOT!

Hey, while we're on the topic, I was told that once a mini has 12x5 wheels or bigger, the bearings have to be replaced every 3,000 Kms. More often for the bigger ones.
Is this true, or is the guy trying to keep himself in business?

Thanks guys for the help. That greasing bearing trick sounds tops, will give it a go for sure.

I am going to try and do it tonight, might have to buy a copper faced mallet. Any excuse to buy new toys. (before it's too late)

Will let you all know how it goes tomorrow.

I have to do the ball joints too, Any tips when renewing them?

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Simon
Daily Driver - Yellow Devil 76 Clubman
Restoration Project - Primer grey 66 Morris Mini Deluxe

I use the old outer race turned over to tap the new one into place, gives you something to hit without risking the new bearing face

might not need to replace the balljoints, you may be able to sort them just by removing a shim, but renew them if they're obviously worn out - if you do have to replace them completely, keep the old shims!

(if you don't know, there are thin metal rings called shims between the big balljoint nut and the hub, they are spacers so you can adjust the tightness of the balljoint)

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Not that I have heard of I have mates running 12x5 and 13x5.5 and have never had to replace the bearings.

Maybe if running 13x7 there ,may be trouble. Always keep the under check amd make anyadjustments when they appear loose.

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I've Got One
You've Got One
We've All Got One
What Is It



A Bloody Mini

1970 Mini K, 1380cc, 1.75 HIF SU, 30 70 Cam, 2" Zorts
1969 Mini K, Stock Standard and Orginal. (Slow as Hell)

i prefer the dollop of grease in the palm of the hand and pressing the grease into the bearing ......
to remove tyhe bearings i use a brass drift
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

You can use the commen punches to get the ole bearing out and in...Use the old race to get the new one's in...and ensure they are full of grease..I love the bag Idea Make sure you dont put a hole through the outer seal also..
The race's must not spin and must be tight..I have known people to use loctight to stop them from spinning

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Sounds a bit suss to me. Even late Minis with the Sportspack wheels use the same old ball bearings. Even the Morris 1100 etc, a heavier car.

I only use (Cooper S style) Timken tapered rollers in front hubs now- their static and dynamic load ratings are about double that of the ball bearings. And they are now not much dearer.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i use em front and back
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

two things will kill a bearing. excessive loads will, but when i say excessive, i mean it. It you had 8in wide wheels with a huge offset, and always cornered as hard as possible, you may wear them slightly earlier than normally. tapered roller bearings will last a lot longer under these conditions than ball bearings, because they are designed to take much higher side loads.

the real problems are:
incorrect setup - misaligned inner or outer races, or not torquing them up correctly
and lack of decent clean lubrication - old grease just won't do, dirty grease will just act like grinding paste and complete lack of grease will overheat the bearing and shag it out pretty quick

a bearing sitting around for a long time will usually suffer from old grease which breaks down under load, and possibly have a bit of corrosion in it so it grinds away. Good idea to repack the bearings on an old car you have just bought that has been sitting around for a long time.

I love bearings. Can you think of any mechanical engineering invention that can do so much, so reliably, for so little cost? If only mi_cro_so_ft could make software as well as bearings are made

michael

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

At leasy computers are not marked up like bearings are- 1100% on landed cost!

source- a bearing industry exec who shall remain nameless..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

buy them direct from the bearing wholesalers. CBC, SKF, Timken etc have industrial wholesale outlets everywhere. These are the same places that the manufacturers, parts suppliers etc buy them from. Only one set of markups then.

I remember buying some bearings for a mill that could take 2000 tonnes radial load and about 10% thrust load in either direction (spherical roller bearings!) for less than $100 each. admittedly that was the price delivered to the door in Tassie for about 6 bearings, so was probably a bit too high. If i bought them by the 1000, as they do when they are building converyers etc, i could have got them for about $25 each. As long as we kept the grease up to those bearings they would outlast the life of the factory.

That's what i mean about cheap.

all about perspective

michael

_________________
the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates