ok so i've just chucked on a 1.75" carby with a TW needle and set the mixture at around 1000 rpm, also have a KU needle

staticly set the timimng to -3 with my new dizzy

but the car is well it pops all the way up the rev range in every gear and seems to lack power past about 3000 rpm, 4th gear hardly pulls at all but will maintain speed. there just little pops that seems to match with each cylinder.

the car is runnign along at 110 degrees (remains steady), which i think is more to do with the temp guage but it still feels hotter than it should on the radiator

the oil pipe that goes to the filter is also hot, im running 15-30 oil i think this is the cause ( should i change it to 20-50) as i've just resarted the engine and wanted to run some thinner stuf through it to get rid off the crap oil from before

the new dizzy has a stiffer curve than most as its prepped for a weber carby so i'm wondering if that is causing it to pop? or is it just because i have no sound deadening that i can actually hear this?

i've still got the other dizzy and a hs4 carby with an AN needle should i go back to that?

car specs are

1310cc
extractors
mildly worked head
1.5 rockers

any help much appreciated

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1962 850,Frog

-3??? Mini timing should be set at idle anywear between +6 to +12 advance depending on what distributor you have and should advance up to around 28. no more than 30 tho or you'll melt pistons. -3 means it retarded, will go slow, wont rev and get hot.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

Incorrect timing and lean mixture will cause overheating.

As 850man said reset the timing, then see if it still pops under accelleration if so check the dash pot fluid and make sure there is plenty in there, if it still pops and farts around your needle and or mixture is to lean.

Is the carb a HS6 or HIF44?
Is the maniflod a water heated type?

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

ok timimng is set, dashpot is full, stillpopping under acceleration sometimes backfiring after i richened it up a bit more.

carb is HI44
manifold isn't water heated
runnig premium and valve saver

im so annoyed i've spent my entire holidays trying to get this thing going again, finally have and it just wont run!

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1962 850,Frog

how did you set the timing? take us through the steps

I'm slightly embarassed to admit that even though I have a timing light, understand the theory and have seen it done successfully many times, I can never see the timing marks properly, or just have trouble with it. So I've always timed my engines by turning the dizzy clockwise (advance) until it runs rough, turn it back till it reaches peak revs, then back a little bit further, then I drive up a hill a few times and listen for pinging - last couple of times I did that, I got my guru to check it with his timing light and it was spot on - works, but not exactly scientific

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

step by step

take out spark plugs,
put car in fourth
hold mirror to gap in flywheel housing and watch for timimng marks, set to TDC
rotate dizzy back till points close
rotate forward till they just open
number one goes to opposite of rotor button
fire it up,
doesn't fire
swap number one lead to opposite side etc
fire it up
all good,

fine tuning i start it up at 1000 rpm then turn the dizzy back till its starts to get a little rough (only turn it about 5 degrees if it doesnt get rough), then forward till it just smooths out again.

take it for a spin to make sure of top end

i've done this with two different dizzies and it still has the same problem

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1962 850,Frog

go the other way - turn it clockwise until it races, then turn it anti clockwise a little



doing it your way, the point where it "just smooths out again" is still too retarded

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Step 1. Liquid paper the timing marks on the flywheel so they can be seen
Step 2. Time engine

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Meh...
1. Put a TDC mark on the crank balancer and timing cover, where you can SEE the bastard..
2. Buy a dial-back timing light.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I did that a couple of years ago - still a pain

solve the EAB's problems, not mine - I'm beyond help

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

thanks for the help guys, i've run out of time to do stuff to the mini now.
have to go back to uni in melb and ittle be at least 6 weeks before i get another chance, i'll let you know how it turns out.

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1962 850,Frog