Ausmini
It is currently Sun Aug 17, 2025 12:44 pm

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 16 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Interesting ......
PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 9:21 pm 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 7:23 am
Posts: 7339
Location: Sunny Shine Coast, Qld Australia
1st up got the passenger door off - has 3 of the wedge shaped alloy washers 2 on the bottom and 1 on the top :?

2nd the back retainer on the bottom hinge was a bolt - that snapped off while being undone :evil:

3rd thing I bolted the refurbished S/H drivers side hinges to the body with new plastic/rubber(?) gaskets. First I tightened the nuts evenly then the rear ones first - still get the same result - the hinges dont sit tight against the body. The back (near edge of the door) is away from the body - the top one not much but I can move the gasket with my finger nail. The bottom one there is about 1mm gap. The nuts are tight as I can do them and the hinge body is tight and no movement. Anyone else have this happen?

_________________
David L
Image

My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 9:25 pm 
Offline
SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
Posts: 18888
Location: Under the bonnet son!
Under the rear studs I used a large panel washer to spread the load out. I still put a champhered washer where appropriate but used the washers to reduce distortion all that weight can have on the door skin.

The gaskets I used were made of bitumised card.

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 9:33 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 11, 2006 8:15 am
Posts: 722
Location: Brisbane
David,
Here is a diagram of the way the hinge bolts, studs and washers should be. it is correct!
Note stud length and washer and spacer positions are shown for both upper and lower hinges.
Hope this is of some use to you.
Dave
Image

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 9:54 pm 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 7:23 am
Posts: 7339
Location: Sunny Shine Coast, Qld Australia
Thanks Dave - that's a great help. The S/H drivers side hinges I have have bolts instead of screws for the front door side hinge and there was a stud in both positions on the front half of the bottom.

It is my original passenger side bottom door side rear that had a bolt instead of stud.

Don't you just love working on Minis :roll:

_________________
David L
Image

My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 1:31 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 29, 2009 10:46 pm
Posts: 1305
Location: Outback Mini Man
What a slut those two inner bolts are to get off, especially if you have road dirt jammed up around them.

_________________
Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 2:07 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39764
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Drexxle wrote:
What a slut those two inner bolts are to get off, especially if you have road dirt jammed up around them.

I have a Sidchrome 7/16 A/F ring/open ender, with the ring end seriously ground away so it's way thinner. Also it's bent up a little. Works for me... :wink:

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 2:12 pm 
Offline
1360cc
1360cc
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2004 7:23 am
Posts: 7339
Location: Sunny Shine Coast, Qld Australia
drmini in aust wrote:
Drexxle wrote:
What a slut those two inner bolts are to get off, especially if you have road dirt jammed up around them.

I have a Sidchrome 7/16 A/F ring/open ender, with the ring end seriously ground away so it's way thinner. Also it's bent up a little. Works for me... :wink:


How many more cheap 7/16 ring spanners do I need so I can butcher them? :P

One for brake lines - now one for door hinges - anymore?

_________________
David L
Image

My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 2:18 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 29, 2009 10:46 pm
Posts: 1305
Location: Outback Mini Man
I have a selection of 1/2 inch spanners as well as 7/16 spanners, some of the 1/2 inch ones have been bent to accomadate single bolts such as the one at the bottom of the clutch housing which is a bitch to get at with the motor in the car.

Youll end up with a toolkit specific to the car, a small set of spanners you can put in a pencil case and throw in the boot.

_________________
Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 3:18 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39764
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Wombat wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
Drexxle wrote:
What a slut those two inner bolts are to get off, especially if you have road dirt jammed up around them.

I have a Sidchrome 7/16 A/F ring/open ender, with the ring end seriously ground away so it's way thinner. Also it's bent up a little. Works for me... :wink:


How many more cheap 7/16 ring spanners do I need so I can butcher them? :P

One for brake lines - now one for door hinges - anymore?

I have a 1/2" one for the 2 bottom bolts in the clutch wok, just put the ring end in the vice, heat shank next to it and put a 45° bend in it. :P
And, another 1/2" one for the mech fuel pump nuts- grind the ring end thin, cut in half, weld at 90° so it is L shaped. 8)

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 7:22 pm 
Offline
Causing or creating vexation

Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2004 10:32 pm
Posts: 19124
drmini in aust wrote:
And, another 1/2" one for the mech fuel pump nuts- grind the ring end thin, cut in half, weld at 90° so it is L shaped. 8)
I cut the cast web off the fuel pump so that the spanner has more turn from above. :wink:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:07 pm 
Offline
This space for rent
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 12:40 pm
Posts: 5455
Location: Melbourne
Morris 1100 wrote:
I cut the cast web off the fuel pump so that the spanner has more turn from above. :wink:


I fitted an electric one :roll:

_________________
Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:14 pm 
Offline
Causing or creating vexation

Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2004 10:32 pm
Posts: 19124
sgc wrote:
Morris 1100 wrote:
I cut the cast web off the fuel pump so that the spanner has more turn from above. :wink:


I fitted an electric one :roll:

I like the fuel pump to stop when the motor stops. :wink:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:15 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39764
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Morris 1100 wrote:
sgc wrote:
Morris 1100 wrote:
I cut the cast web off the fuel pump so that the spanner has more turn from above. :wink:


I fitted an electric one :roll:

I like the fuel pump to stop when the motor stops. :wink:

Can be arranged with some more wiring.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:20 pm 
Offline
Causing or creating vexation

Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2004 10:32 pm
Posts: 19124
drmini in aust wrote:
Morris 1100 wrote:
sgc wrote:
Morris 1100 wrote:
I cut the cast web off the fuel pump so that the spanner has more turn from above. :wink:


I fitted an electric one :roll:

I like the fuel pump to stop when the motor stops. :wink:

Can be arranged with some more wiring.

I know, but I like things to be simple and reliable. There is no point in adding more weight and making things more complex when it is not needed. The stock fuel pump can do a good job and is simple.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:25 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2004 4:07 pm
Posts: 4682
Location: sunbury victoria
the gas lock off in mine weighs about as much as a finger nail so not much different, and you can time it so it runs for a while before you turn the engine over for that high tech feel, then when it breaks down on a rainy highway i agree with you fully

_________________
Potato


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 16 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 313 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.