Hi everyone,

I finally got around to buying two seals for where the selector shaft goes into the rod change gearbox on my mini. I knocked out the roll pin (eventually :p), but had some troubles after that.

Firstly, I wanted to remove the old seal. The problem was, it was stuck in pretty firmly the whole way around (like it had been glued there or something, I dunno...). In hindsight, I probably should have just left it there and stuck a new seal or two on top (I'm a noob though, so this hindsight may also be wrong!). Instead, in my stupidity, I hacked away at it with a small screwdriver and removed most of it.. in bits. So my first problem is that I'm afraid the remaining bits of old seal will mess up the new seal(s), causing them to leak too.

Second problem is that I don't know which way around the seal is meant to go in !

Third problem is I'm not sure how far the seal should go in... At the moment it sticks out quite a long way, but this might be because:
a) I've got it in the wrong way around
b) Bits of old seal are stopping it going all the way in

So really problem 3 will hopefully be solved if i can solve problems 1 and 2..

Anyway, any help on any of these three problems would be very greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Harry

I haven't seen a rod change 'box in years, but...

clean all the old bits out

the flat part goes out

the flat part should be flush with the housing it goes in to

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I don't think it matters which way they go in.
The old trick to stop leaks is to add a second seal behind the first, so yes you probably should have just left the original one in there and tapped the new one in behind it.

note - do you have oil in the gearbox? otherwise you could get a facefull of Castrol or whatever when the rest of that seal is removed

In response to how far to push it in. My recollection is that with two, the seals are pretty much flush with the rear of the housing where the rod protrudes from. So if using one, then it should go in leaving a gap of the same size as itself.

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welcome to wonderful world of mini.
1 you are going to have to remove all the old seal befor fitting the new one, you are on the right track with the screwdriver, use a smallish one to pry it out or a sharp one on the outside edge to colaapse the old one
2 the nec seal goes with the flatish side to the ouusside, matt the miniman on here makes a special alloy seal that is a great conversion and with it and one new seal after it solves the problem for years
3 it does not stick out of the hole , it should be at the least flush with the edge of the alloy or further in
4 join the ACT Mini Club and then you will have plenty of people to help you out with advice and any special tools you might need

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

Remove all of the old seal and any other seals that may have been pushed in over the years with a little screwdriver/scriber/pointy thing etc. Install the new seal with the flat surface facing outwards, with a 5/8 spark plug socket. tap the seal in untill its flush with the outside of the diff housing. Replace the roll pin (use a new one) and if there is excessive wear in the barrel replace that too.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

Later A+ engines had a alloy spacer with an O ring around the outside that went in behind the seal, an attempt by Rover to stop the oil leaking problem, they also had a rubber boot between the seal and the barrel.
I have always removed the little spring inside the seal and shortened it a bit, this makes the seal grab the shaft tighter and hopefully stops the oil coming out.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

If you can't get the old seal out after trying hard, don't sweat it. There is room for about 3 seals in there before it is chockers.

But what a stupid idea it was, putting the selector shaft and seal below the oil level... they call this `progress?'??

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Nope.........BMC engineering

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

Nothing to do with BMC. It was Leyland that created the rod-change box.
They only did it to suit the Austin Allegro and the Mini got the flow on.

I always Put Two seals In

I always put a remote change gearbox in.

they always drip, ive replaced them several times.

Just get a can of sealant spray and hit it with that and bobs your auntie.

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Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

Works for me too.
Remote change was an engineered solution, the rodchange was an agricultural solution.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have a feeling that the rod change was a rush job after they were going to go for a cable change (I have no proof of this but it was around the same time that the Maxi went from cables to rod-change)

No they don't, the one in my car has been there since the gearbox rebuild in 2001 and hasn't dropped a single drip of oil since then.

Touch wood

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges