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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 5:19 pm 
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Just thought I'd throw this question into the ring. Sorry if it has been discussed B4.

Wondering is it is a feasible proposition, assuming wet subframes will fit OK and the pipes somehow routed internally, for added protection.

I guess my real question is whether the Moke body is of the right mass to suit this type of suspension, or would it be too light?

Over to the experts. :)

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 5:36 pm 
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My first thought would be the weight difference between a moke and a normal mini. Werent the rear trailing arms longer on a moke? That would give harder suspension i believe, due to a bigger moment around the pivot point. Or have i got it mixed up?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:11 pm 
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blue_deluxe wrote:
My first thought would be the weight difference between a moke and a normal mini. Werent the rear trailing arms longer on a moke? That would give harder suspension i believe, due to a bigger moment around the pivot point. Or have i got it mixed up?


Yes, the moke trailing arms are longer to accommodate the 13" wheels with standard profile tyres.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:15 pm 
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TheBoy wrote:
blue_deluxe wrote:
My first thought would be the weight difference between a moke and a normal mini. Werent the rear trailing arms longer on a moke? That would give harder suspension i believe, due to a bigger moment around the pivot point. Or have i got it mixed up?


Yes, the moke trailing arms are longer to accommodate the 13" wheels with standard profile tyres.


Only the ones with bigger wheels were bigger. The little wheelers obviulsy had little wheels and therefore werent.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:21 pm 
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There is no problems fitting hydro to a Moke.
As for the concern about different lever ratios and weight differences just look at rubber suspension in Minis and Mokes, do they fit different rubber springs to Mokes becasue they are lighter? No. Why would hydro be any different?
I would imagine that the pressure in the system would be lower because of the weight difference.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:33 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
I would imagine that the pressure in the system would be lower because of the weight difference.


Which I guess means one could also pump it up readily for the purposes of increasing ground clearance. Plus a more compliant suspension at lower pressures. Thanks for the inspiration. :)

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1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:12 pm 
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It should be noted That a Hydro trailing arm Is different to a Dry trailing arm. Where the ball foot is located in the trailing arm on the hydro trailing arm this is positioned further back than it is on a dry trailing arm.
I am not saying that hydro can not be fitted to a Moke, As I have seen it done Before


Last edited by John Smidt on Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:14 pm 
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Hmmm... I'm building a 77 van with hydro, but on a Moke it sounds like fun.
Anyone for using a pair of outboard motor trim & tilt pumps...:mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 9:13 pm 
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the problem with pumping it up for off-road use is that the front suspension bottoms out on the subframe where the rebound pad is for the top arm, and where the driveshaft goes through. Also the camber will go very positive unless long bottom arms are used, driveshafts would need to be a bit longer than standard

I've thought about how to solve these issues before :roll:

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 Post subject: hydro moke
PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 9:42 pm 
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There is a small problem, rear bump mount needs to be frabicated on the moke body shell, you could also manufacture hi-los for the hydro bags.
Les

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