One dead give away that the clutch arm ball end is worn (which they do) is the angle which arm sits at.

Take a photo of the arm and I bet the experts here will pin point your problem.

As stated DO NOT be temped to bend the arm to compensate for a worn ball. Just buy a new arm. Easy to get , at about $50-$60 NEW

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"Boris" - '69 Cooper S Mk 2

The 2 big clutch throw out nuts should be backed off before any clutch adjustment is carried out, then reset according to the manual after adjustment is finalised.

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Steve

I have never needed to move the big nuts on any Mini in the past 30 years. Just leave them alone, they are fine.
The big nuts have nothing to do with clutch adjustment unless there is something wrong.

All they do is prevent overthrowing the clutch and causing undue wear on the crank thrusts.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Thats right.
If you block a clutch hose it is possible to pump the clutch up and not have it return. If you pump it twice it will overthrow and this can cause big damage.
I keep the nuts for that reason, they are only a safety catch and not a normal running part of the clutch.

Agree safety catch, but what if they are done up too tight? How do you adjust the clutch properly? Run the risk of breaking the end off the clutch arm

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Steve

If your plunger has movement sideways through the casing, then your bearing will hit the plate at an angle, you will get a higher noise from it if this is the case.

Be careful here, because youll pop the bearing inside the clutch housing and then you are truly screwed, youll have to take the clutch housing off and replace the bearing.

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Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

How did they get done up too tight in the first place? They do not suddenly become wrongly adjusted.

has anybody used one of those clutch return springs instead of the two locking nuts on the end of the plunger.

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Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

I prefer to fix the problem (too much slack in the system) than to hide the problem by cocking it up.

im trying to find a picture of one, its a large thick spring that goes on the end of the plunger in place of the two locking nuts.

It does two things, stops the clutch plunger from moving too far as the two locking nuts do.

But because it is a spring, it pulls the plunger and bearing back out away from the diaphram.

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Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

No, and there's no need for one either. Set up the clutch properly and it works perfectly without modification from factory spec.

If the ball on your arm is worn, replace it. If the socket in which it sits is worn, replace it. Does it get any easier?

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

I've seen those spring nuts on ebay quite a bit.. I'm always a bit skeptical about those sort of 'gimmicks'..

I'll have a close listen to the clutch tomorrow. I'll try that screwdriver technique, I like that idea! Kinda like a clutch doctors stethoscope!

Thanks for all the tips guys! Don't worry, I was never considering bending the clutch arm!!!

I have seen a lot of those springs on ebay alongside the fake Cooper S, dodgy Cooper S ID plates and blank id plates.
He has 100% feedback though.

Sold a lot of items too..
I just noticed he has the same Mini Mayfair listed twice. Too bad if 2 people hit buy it now at the same time