Ok what procedure and what order do every one else use when bleeding there drum brakes on a clubman after fitting new wheels cylinders?

Asking just so I can do it right and not end up hitting something or someone.

Thanks Ralph.

I start from the left rearthen go, right rear, left front and then right front.
make sure you keep the reservior full, otherwise you'll have to start again every time you get air in the line.
It's workd for me so far.

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Keep checking the fluid level in the master cylinder.
Keep checking the fluid level in the master cylinder.
Keep checking the fluid level in the master cylinder.
Keep checking the fluid level in the master cylinder.
Keep checking the fluid level in the master cylinder.
Keep checking the fluid level in the master cylinder.


I always fall victim to the "Just one more pump before I check" syndrome.
Once the air is in there, it's half a bottle of brake fluid to get it out....

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I don't care which corner is first or last, this way always works for me.

Fill the master to the top, open a bleed nipple and have you assistant pump the pedal 15 times fast, close the nipple with the pedal down.

Re fill the master, do this for the pther wheels.

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

If you have twin leading shoe front brakes you need to bleed both cylinders - Madmatt wrote a how to some when on here a while back.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

I've just replaced the rear wheel cylinders in my S , i also blew compressed air through the brake lines from front to rear to make sure that there was no crap in the lines then put it all back together , adjusted the rear drums up, filled m/c, went through the bleeding process the same as the others have said, brake peddle feels good , the car has had a few short runs now but i am going to re-adjust the rears again and give it another bleed to to make sure. I have struck the bloody things before where you have hells own trouble getting them right, sometimes it can take ages.

Found this from Matt:
If what you just said was actually true in that the peddle is solid,,, then it`s adjustment that is the problem

if the peddle is soft & spongey then there is air in the system & needs bleeding

To bleed front brakes, you will need to "UN_ADJUST" them first,,, then bleed them,,, & then "ADJUST" them back up

to un-adjust you will need to turn the adjusters opposit to the rotation of the wheels, then when udjusting them up after bleeding, you will need to turn the adjusters in the forward direction of the rotation of the wheels

to paint you all a picture to make it all make more sense-->

imagine laying under the car & turn your head so you`re looking at the backplate of the Left front wheel (passengers side) to adjust them up-->. turn both the adjusters clockwises

now looking at the right hand back plate,,, turn the adjusters anticlockwise

that is to udjust "UP" the front wheels
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& obviously reverse that proceedure to "UN-Adjust"

& i`ll say it again,,, you will need to UN_ADJUST them BEFORE you bleed, Then Adjust them back up

If you have adjusted them the wrong way , then they will un-adjust themselves very very quickly & you will have a very low peddle again in no time at all

If it`s a low peddle but a solid peddle, then it`s adjustment

if it`s spongey peddle then it`s air & needs a bleed

if it`s a low & spongey peddle , then obviously you need to unadjust, then bleed, then re-adjust up

any questions????

As I said before there are 2 bleed nipples on some front drums - second one is tucked up under the steering arm

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!