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 Post subject: Clutch Release Bearing
PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:07 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Muswellbrook -- NSW
I've just fitted a new Timken clutch release bearing to my mini and cannot believe the difference it made to the feel of the clutch operation, nice and smooth, feels lighter and not to mention no more noise, it had one of those smaller looking Japanese type ones in it , well worth spending that little bit extra.

Colin


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:20 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Hunter Valley, NSW
Yes - and after buying one through a mini supplier I have found I can quote the bearing number at the local bearing supplier and get the same Timekin bearing at less than half the price! Next time I will remember.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:00 pm 
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998cc
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miniDave wrote:
Yes - and after buying one through a mini supplier I have found I can quote the bearing number at the local bearing supplier and get the same Timekin bearing at less than half the price! Next time I will remember.


And Dave, The part number is?

Dave

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 5:49 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Timken 3W5/8

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:27 am 
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is this hard to replace..

i have no idea but ill give it a go.

:)


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:03 am 
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NG wrote:
is this hard to replace..

i have no idea but ill give it a go.

:)


Bl**dy hard to get on - ended up pressing it on with the vice - hate to have to try and get it off ( used a new holder thingy whatever its called)

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:50 am 
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miniDave wrote:
Yes - and after buying one through a mini supplier I have found I can quote the bearing number at the local bearing supplier and get the same Timekin bearing at less than half the price! Next time I will remember.


You must have a very good bearing supplier because I tried the same thing with mine and was told they couldn't get it :!: :(

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 7:43 pm 
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1275cc
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The job is a bit of a pain but if you have got plenty of time you can get it done, i found that getting the bolts out down the bottom of the clutch cover to be a challenge ,a set of stubby ring , open -ender spanners made the job a lot easier, as for the pressing off & on of the bearing i cheated , i got my brother to do it at work with a press.I The only other pain was that i had to take the brake booster out which led to having to bleed the brakes so whilst i was in that department i cleaned the brake lines & resivoir out , replaced the rear wheel cylinders and brakes now are working like they should. Over all if you can get the car up off the ground and on good car stands ( but for god's sake make sure that it is very stable before you go crawling underneath, ) also i try and leave the wheels on as an extra security plus put some other pieces of large timber under as well, just in case it comes of the stands for some reason, but take your time and you should be able to nut it out.

Colin


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 8:11 pm 
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Location: Hunter Valley, NSW
Panthersteve wrote:
miniDave wrote:
Yes - and after buying one through a mini supplier I have found I can quote the bearing number at the local bearing supplier and get the same Timekin bearing at less than half the price! Next time I will remember.


You must have a very good bearing supplier because I tried the same thing with mine and was told they couldn't get it :!: :(


Just took the box with me with the number quoted by Kev. Looked it up in the system and said there was an updated part number with the supplier I used but found it no problem.

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1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 8:15 pm 
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Wombat wrote:
NG wrote:
is this hard to replace..

i have no idea but ill give it a go.

:)


Bl**dy hard to get on - ended up pressing it on with the vice - hate to have to try and get it off ( used a new holder thingy whatever its called)


I had the wok off and took off the larger nut and the spindle comes out with the bearing on the inside. Use a puller to get the old bearing off and then a socket and a 20 ton press to gently press on the new one. Took about 2 minutes. Used the local mechanics press but have noticed they are well priced now through suppliers and useful for 101 things!

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1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 10:56 am 
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Location: Hunter Valley, NSW
Just dug out the old box!

Timken part number is IR-127

underneath it has the following:

15.8 x 48.8 x 15.8

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1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 3:08 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Belconnen, Canberra
I'll probably have a go at replacing my clutch bearing tonight.

I don't have puller. If I take the spindle out of the wok, should I be able to put the bearing in a decent vise and use a well-applied BFH and a suitable punch to separate the two?

I was going to use the same vise to press the new bearing on.

Does anybody see a problem with this, before I go and bugger things up?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 3:14 pm 
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Yep that will work fine. Press only on the inner part when fitting the new one. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 3:16 pm 
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Location: Belconnen, Canberra
Great, thanks Doc. We'll see how it goes.

Cheers,
Simon


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 3:40 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
It's amazing the jobs an offset vice can accomplish...

It's nearly perfect for most bearing jobs around the mini, but sometimes it will not keep the jaws quite parallel, so the bearing will go on skew-if and then jam. so you have to make sure the jaws stay paralell, or put the job in the exact center of the jaws to spread the load either side of the vice's screw.

Just gotta pay attention to that tiny point, and its the easiest job about.

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