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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 11:03 am 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Mon May 02, 2005 2:24 pm
Posts: 531
Location: Rockhampton
This is good Info as im going to be re fitting a head i got a far while ago and fitting in the Re13 cam ive had for a fair while waiting to be fitted as well. So now the question is what steps should i be doing when getting the Cam fitted and dialed in?? also What are those woodruff keys on minisport For? should i be getting a Cam dialer? step by step guideline will be amazing.
Regards darken.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 11:29 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I could spend 1/2 an hour here typing, but I won't... :lol:

See Keith Calver's article...
http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatagory/ ... ticleV.cfm

Let's say using this method you find the RE13 is timed in at 108° ATDC as I did recently.
Ideal with a chain drive is 104-105°, so you would use a 4° offset key. Note- to advance the cam (which you want) the top of cam key is fitted offset pointing to the left..

BTW an RE13 will run OK anywhere from 103 to 108 according to GR, so it's no big deal really.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 12:45 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Mon May 02, 2005 2:24 pm
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Location: Rockhampton
ahh thanks very much so i will need to get a dialer and circle protractor plus a 4deg Woodruff key. what does the woodruff key actualy do?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 3:57 pm 
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DarkenMini wrote:
ahh thanks very much so i will need to get a dialer and circle protractor plus a 4deg Woodruff key. what does the woodruff key actualy do?

The woodruff key is a semi-circular key that connects the sprocket to the camshaft.
Don't buy an offset one, yet.
You need to assemble it with a STD woodruff key first, and check the timing.
Then see how far it is out, if at all.
It might be OK... :wink:

You can buy offset keys from 1-9° in 1° steps, from Minispares UK.

Note- the key just locates the sprocket and cam, the drive is (or should be) transmitted by the fact that the nut is torqued up to 72lb/ft.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 8:22 am 
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1098cc
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Joined: Sun Oct 10, 2004 4:04 pm
Posts: 1533
Location: melbourne, victoria
Hey,
So after the rocker studs and nuts falling apart when tensioning them back up I have replaced the studs.

Now this may sound like a stupid question but I am scared of engine/head internals almost as much as clowns and wiring.

I have a heap of 5/16unf nuts that fit the studs but they are the gold coloured ones from nut and bolt sets I have purchased over the build. Is it ok to use these on the rocker studs? I haven't seen these used in this application and wanted to make sure before doing it and all the gold stuff flaking off and my engine detonating ( I know it highly unlikely but I am trying to be dramatic :) )

D


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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 11:08 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
The 5/16 UNF ones are fine for the rocker post studs.
Don't overtighten, they are only 25 ft/lb.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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