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PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 9:35 pm 
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1360cc
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drmini in aust wrote:
<edit> fill the fuel tanks, you cheapskate! :lol:


Fuel TANK Kev..... :lol: Pops would love to be an 'S'.....but he is juat a simple old 'K' :wink:


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 9:56 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
J_A_M wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
<edit> fill the fuel tanks, you cheapskate! :lol:


Fuel TANK Kev..... :lol: Pops would love to be an 'S'.....but he is juat a simple old 'K' :wink:

Mine's a `Matic, must be upmarket model, haha- S motor, discs, twin tanks.. :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 10:01 pm 
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1360cc
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i still wonder what an S motor would be like on a matic.

By the way Kev, my neighbour told me today that Mini Ha Ha is just like his mum's old Mini.... :lol: hehehe...I bet hers didnt go like that though! :shock:


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 10:04 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: the Cold Toast QLD
LOL at gaf and doc... its raked, its the drag race look mate, its fully sick... even thorpy says so

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 6:02 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
J_A_M wrote:
i still wonder what an S motor would be like on a matic.


You will find out when Brad gets my old 1275 `matic finished! :P
The PO put 12" wheels and big tyres on the front- said it got to 90MPH real quick. And it was just a stocko 1275 auto then, Brad and Phil have put twin carbs on now. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 7:38 am 
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1360cc
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woohoo!! :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 8:26 am 
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998cc
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Location: Melbourne
:?
JAM,
Check all the things others have mentioned but it probably only needs a bit of fluid added. The bags tend to stretch over time and the volume of the system increases slightly. In fact when new bags are fitted the system is pumped up to over 400psi and held there for 30 to 60 minutes to initially stretch the bags. The pressure is then reduced to the normal 283psi. When the system is pumped up the rear rises to the correct height first as it weighs less, then the front starts to rise until the correct front ride height is reached. So when the bags stretch over time the front slowly drops first giving the "bum in the air" effect. If you still can't get the correct ride height then start looking at rear helper springs, worn plastic strut cups etc.
The competition rear bump stops are also a good idea. They stop the rear sqatting under acceleration and increase the rear roll stiffness.

Hope this helps
RonR


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 8:55 am 
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1360cc
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miniron wrote:
Hope this helps
RonR


Sure does!! Thanks Ron. I guess that's the easiest thing to check and rectify first. Kev has a nice home made pump to top up hydro....I'll have to call upon the good doc once again :wink:

Do you think the front end **cluck** over bumps could be because it is sitting low?

Anton.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 2:27 pm 
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is your driveway flat, jammo? ;)



:roll:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 8:45 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Melbourne
:shock:
JAM,
The sagged front end isn't helping. If it's that low at the front it's sitting on the bump stops the clunk could be just about anything. Check for chewed up bump stops, worn rubber bushes on lower control arm inner ends, worn front tie bar bushes, worn hub ball joints, worn strut plastic cups, wheel bearings, steering rack etc.
If it's been low in front and the suspension has been bottoming for a while it can even cause cracking of the subframe towers or worse.
There is a whole world of possibilities, some more expensive than others to fix.
Thats probably not what you wanted to hear.

Regards
RonR


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 8:58 pm 
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1360cc
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I'll check it right out this coming weekend. Thanks for the pointers!


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