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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 12:44 pm 
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Hey guys,
So I have pretty much go the new loom in and plugged in. A couple of questions please.

The wires that go to the stop switch ( switch to show when brakes are depressed) where does the wire go through to get to this switch in a 75 clubman? I am guessing the inch sized hole but it could also go thru with the throttle cable.

Does the fuse box usually sit on the firewall or to the side?

I am neatening the wires up at the moment and wondering the following because my loom seems a little tight. The loom runs from the pax headlight, is held down by the metal folding tabs across to the drivers light, runs up to the tab near the tower, through the hole in the tower brace, through tabs up and under the wiper stuff ( on the inside) and then through firewall in the centre usually yeah?

Sorry for the dumb questions, I want to get this right is all.


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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 1:21 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
75 Clubby had a hydraulic stop switch, the wires were in the main loom.
If you want them inside for a late type switch I would drill a 1/4" hole and fit a grommet.

Fuse box on the side.

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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 2:30 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
If you want them inside for a late type switch I would drill a 1/4" hole and fit a grommet.


Absolutely, do NOT route them with the throttle or choke cable as the movement of those cables in use will eventually wear through the wiring insulation.

(Actually, thinking about it... how could you route it via the throttle cable hole? That's supposed to be a tight fit...)

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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 2:52 pm 
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my 75 mini has the brake hyrdolic brake sensor at the brake line join on the front subframe below the clutch housing, two wires from the loom stright down on it.

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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 3:00 pm 
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Drexxle wrote:
my 75 mini has the brake hyrdolic brake sensor at the brake line join on the front subframe below the clutch housing, two wires from the loom stright down on it.

Those hydraulic switches used to be OK but lately new seem not so reliable. I got 3 months out of a new one and 3 weeks out of another. :evil:
Hard to beat a mechanical switch...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 6:51 pm 
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hey all. Thanks for your input.

MY mini is a bit of an oddity. Its a 75 van with a a plus motor and it seems like it was made up of leftovers or something :)

That explains why my wires are not long enough to reach the mech switch as I got a loom made up to match the 75. I will cut, crimp and solder some wire on to make up the gap.

Thinking about this I think I may have both.... I will check it out when I am within looking distance of my mini ( next week). Sounds weird but I wouldn't be suprised.


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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 8:06 pm 
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floss wrote:

I am neatening the wires up at the moment and wondering the following because my loom seems a little tight.


Go to a wreckers and find a Mini Clubby and cut the loom out and add what you need, where you need and you can run the wires where you want. Just do it correctly with solder and Heat Shrink. I'm actualy doing this at the moment with the whole loom not a new one.
If your not driving it at the moment you can take your time and get it spot on :wink:
PLEASE DO NOT try and stretch a wire "as you have wondered" to fit as it will short out soon enough and you will have more trouble than it was worth. And add Grommets with any holes in pannels you ad :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 10:32 pm 
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hey gafmo.

I wouldn't stretch wires. I don't think they even do stretch. I have a brand new loom from vinwire and my old loom so I can scavenge some extra lengths from that. I have been soldering and electrical taping all new connections. I have a jar of different sized grommets and have used these for all holes so far.

Thanks for everyones help and suggestions.
D


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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 10:40 pm 
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floss wrote:
I have been soldering and electrical taping


Consider using heatshring tubing, it won't come undone, nor go sticky and greasy with age and is much neater and easier to fit.

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The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 10:53 pm 
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Yep as Simon and I have said Use Heatshrink on the join areas rather than tape. You can get it from the dick smiths and the like and come in differant sizes and colours for the Mains you may need 4mm or the less wires 3mm. Its a matter of slidding it on and getting your wifes or Yours :roll: :lol: hair dryer and heating it up to shrink it over the exposed area + each side. If you have you old loom your on the front foot already 8)

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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 7:31 am 
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Hey Simon and Gafmo,
I will go to Jaycar tonight and get some. Thanks for your advice again.

Ohh and how did you know that I blow dry my beard :)

D


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