Plan A-
Get thee a good file..
Screw the plug in with no washer, take it back out and carefully file the marks it left on the gearbox.
Repeat until you get a mark all the way round (or just about).
Refit with a new (ie. soft) copper washer, should be OK then.
Plan B--
Buy some Loctite 222, 242 or 262, smear a bit on the `wiped clean' threads each time you refit the plug.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Nice, but the orifice is too small to let all the broken bearings & piston rings out

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Nice, but the orifice is too small to let all the broken bearings & piston rings out

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Actually I was thinking that the sump plug magnet would be missed, but I don't have one on my current plug (it's been replaced at some point) and run a couple of hard disk magnets on the filter instead

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Had a good look at the sump plug hole today - don't think the Doc's plan A is applicable.

It's a combination of a number of things -

1.. there is a chip out of the lip of the hole no much but enough
Taken before it was helicoiled - not as big but still some there

2.. the copper washer has to have a big enough hole to get over the thread of the sump plug but when it reaches the head of the plug there is a much narrower smooth section so the washer can move sideways quite a bit.

3.. A combination of the above means that the washer doesn't cover the nick and the flat on the head of the bolt doesn't cover all the inside of the hole in the washer leaving a pathway for oil to leave the sump

So it looks like - find a plug with a thread right up to the head so the washer can't move about and/or use the Doc's Plan B with plenty of goo under the head of the plug

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Is it out of the car still?
Should have TIG welded it before assembly...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The fully assembled engine and gear box is out of the car.

If the washer didn't move about as much it would be OK I think. Do all sump plugs have that smooth flat section above the thread?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

I have a similar problem with my sump plug, no matter what I tried it still weeped a little oil. The previous owner tried thread tape and a stack of fibre washers but it didn't work, I went back to just one good copper washer and it almost stopped leaking but it still leaked a bit.
So I cleaned it up with CRC Brakleen and applied Loctite Liquid thread sealer (liquid thread tape! )
It has not leaked a drop in the past twelve months.

The CRC Brakleen is a spray on solvent that washes away the oil and then evaporates dry.
The Loctite thread sealant is a white paste in a tube that you just smear a little on the threads.

Yeah that Loctite paste is good, but I found their 242 just as good and I keep it. You don't need heaps of either, it only has to seal one thread to work.
Toss the washer away...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.