I CAN'T WAIT!!!

_________________
The BLUE BRIK

I went from a 1098 to a 1275A+ and the difference was incredible, you are going to have a lot of fun.

_________________
67 Deluxe - Red and white
69 Deluxe - Sugercane Grey

The GR 7" manifolds are about $375 now, and you should be able to find a decent HS6 for $100-$150.
They are a bit close, but a bit of firewall percussion will let it clear.
Airfilters- Either a Ramflo or a K&N can be persuaded to fit in.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

@dr mini in aust: Excuse my ignorance - what car is that in your pictures? It's not a Moke, is it? I'm a bit confused about the firewall... I thought they all have a hole in them (where the centre speedo sits)?

To the 1275: yes, they have a fair amount of extra grunt over the 998 especially uphills you notice the difference if there's a 998 driving behind you *Oops, where is he!?*

Cheers,
Jan

_________________
No speakers, no bodykits, no six-inch spacers, no spak filler, no bullshit

Late Aussie Minis have no hole in the dash. The change was late 76 or early 77.

yep Clubby Van

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Van is a `77. Next project.... prep and paint the sucker.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

when its said 1275 A+ , is that a special 1275 or just a couple of extra mods to a normal 1275. whats the difference, if there is one. bah i have no idea,,, quess that y i still got the 998 beast machine.

_________________
PrOuDlY aSkInG qUeStIoNs FoR uR aMuEsMeNt

Around 1980 BL redesigned the A series, both the 1275 and 998 (but we didn't get many 998A+ here back then).

1275A+:
block was lightened a bit and stiffening ribs added.
mounting holes for alternator bracket moved forward.
dizzy driveshaft design and dizzy clamping changed.
oil pump drive changed from spider (splined) drive to slot drive.
conrods (big journal) redesigned, much lighter.
crankshaft given rolled fillet radii on all journals.
detail changes to head castings, porting enlarged a bit.

There are others I've forgotten.
Bottom line, it's still an A series and most bits can be swapped.

oh the single row timing chain got a tensioner, but it came out on 1275 A series before the A+ arrived.

Also:
most 1275A+ blocks had sleeved bores, due to porosity problems.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cool.
I always wondered what the difference was.
Being sleeved, has anyone re-sleeved an A+?
I'm only assuming that you can't sleeve an A.

_________________

'72 English Van...'72 Export Moke ...63' 850...KZ 750E1...'74 P76

You can sleeve any of them.

You can resleeve them back to standard 1275, even from 73.5mm (1380cc).

You can rebore a sleeved A+ block to 1293 or perhaps 1310cc. Any bigger, and you have to bore or press the sleeve out. Then bore to next size (or sleeve it again).

Some A+ blocks have uneven metal thickness round the bores too.
So don't believe the yarns about A+ blocks all being better than an A series block. It ain't true...
You can make a decent race motor from either of them, A+ or A series.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

What is your view on sleaving the bores back to the size you want even if you didnt need to, so that you have a "better" metal then just cast iron? Would this help make the bores last and seal better? As far as I know there is nothing wrong with having sleved bores?

This was a thing sugested to me with my motor, I didnt end up doing it tho.

Nathan.

You CAN get better power from a sleeved motor, as the iron is much finer grained (ie, better). But, it's still cast iron. Some race classes won't let you uses sleeves, so I've been told.
Bore life `might' be better with sleeves too.
How well the rings seal though depends on the bore and hone job. Some engine builders do it better than others.

I wouldn't sleeve a motor just to get the size I want. Sleeving is expensive. Used here mainly to reclaim blocks that are worn to the limit, or where a bore has had an accident in competition.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

hey guys well my mini is still down at Mini king having the new motor put in... found out some news about the old engine.... it's apparently pretty Farked!

first thing they did when they pulled it out was to do a compression test...
engine only been pretty much running on cylinder 1 and 3 no compression in 2 of the cylinders! NO WONDER THE 998 HAD NO POWER!
my motor was a "little" oily around the tranny seal... looks like the my old motor was due for an overhaul anyway!

makes me feel alot better knowing i've got my nice, new fresh motor with plenty of power...mmmmmm 1275 i can't wait!!

_________________
The BLUE BRIK