Interesting and useful chart:

http://www.britishwiring.com/CAT02_07.PDF

My new wiring harness has headlight wires that are 2.1mm OD which from another manufacturers site indicated a current capacity of 8 amps so I thought I'd bump it up a bit and got some of the right colour codes from Vinwire in 14 gauge or an OD of 2.7mm - doesn't look much but with a capacity of 17.5 amps I'll breath easier

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Gotta watch the method of calculating current carrying capabilities of wire.

Some will give the cross section of the copper, and others will use the diameter of the wire including plastic as a guide against a table of values. Trouble with this is that the thickness of the insulation changes (check out supercrap 6mm copper(crapper) wire).

I believe its a different method that auto sparks used to use.

It's a huge difference if you mix the tables up and one which will lead to smoke and a heated engine bay.
Eight amps sounds reasonable in this case however, as a guide a 2.5mm^2 copper cross section cable can carry up to 25 amps continuously. It sounds like you have a 1.5mm^2 cable, so the max draw will be less.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Hi,
I'm currently wading through my harness which is out of the car, that's a good point, I've looked replacing parts of it and have checked out the wire at Supercheap but have been a bit dubious about using it. Think I'll do the same with headlights and driving lights, and will probably get the wire off my autoelec. which would be safer.
Brian

The autolecky wire is top shelf. Soft, fine conductor strands, high quality insulation and available in all the colours you need to match you harness.

And still so cheap....ridiculously cheap really.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

while we are on the subject and no way Hyjacking but may assist many of us who are doing the same thing at the same time. I collected additional harness from a wreck and have enought of the thicker wire from a clubby for the Hight beam and standard headlights. Brilliant then I looked at the head lights and the Connection to them are the pissy wires. I can't see the point of running the nice thick wire to the pissy ones. I'v checked many a site and can't find the female connection to so i can run the thicker wire all the way to the lights

Also are we all putting a fuse for the Front / Back and Dash lights, "Red wires"

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

It can help the lights somewhat if you do put the thicker wires to the center front joiner and have it split out to left and right from there. But it is best to follow right through and solder in thicker wires all the way to the backs of the plugs. You can solder directly onto the brass connector spade.

Copper at the limit of it's capacity will act as a resistor at a rate of X ohms/meter resistance or Y volts/meter voltage drop.

So removing some of the old and thin copper will help, but removing it all is better.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

didn't think to cut the old wires back and solder the new one onto it and then heat sink it..I was thinking more on the line to get new spade. Well that was 3 hours waisted looking for them

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Mike I ran with your idea and I also did the Black also as it carries the current back. One thing the wires were copper, i shouldn't worry...yer



While I was at it I'd thought I'd try something else that was in my head for the fuse box. This is just a practic with some spare black I had. the idea is for Fuel Pump, Radio, Blinker Can, Brakeswitch & Heater (All Green) to have thier own Fuse and the other side will be the same but the White Wires from the Coil & to IGN. A bit of fine tunning should see it nice and neat

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Hi all,
Been sorting out my harness, it is a roundie but had a clubby dash so the harness is a little dodgy, nothing too bad, I will be using a full set of Ser.III Jag gauges (does that mean my mini will leak oil?) anyway saw these wiring harness' for sale ($99US) and was considering starting from scratch.
Having seen the nice fusebox used by gafmo may consider something along that line just replacing fusebox.
Anyone used one of these EZ2Wire harness'?
Brian

Nice Brian but just becouse its out of a Jag doesn't mean its going to leak oil...it will anyway, Its a Mini but thats another point

I have another Question
Id like to use a Toggel for the High Beam dip switch rather than the floor push button am I correct in saling Blue "1" Blue/Red "7" & Blue/White "6"
These Haynes Wire Diagrams crapolla

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Okay Ill have to ansewer my own question of the weekend

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

There is a company that advertises Headlamp sockets in either Plastic or Ceramic, check them out here> http://www.larpro.com.au/larpro/category/180?p=1&pp=50&s=1#table

Dicko

Dickoo...Great link but 8:30 this morning I did my upgrade but perfect for those that want to just purchase and install

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

well I worked it out changing from a push button on the floor to a Toggle Blue wire to #1 Blue/Red to #7 Blue/White to #6

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Proto type 2



Its finished now but the camera doesn't like the light but you get the idea of how I got thier


last white Heat Shrink on and nice and tight should work nicely

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It