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 Post subject: wheel bearings
PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 4:40 pm 
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998cc
998cc
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Location: Queensland
ok i am going to order new wheel bearings for the front of my car because i got some play in the ones that are in there and they are really old ect soo i wanna no just for the front how much is the going rate for wheel bearings and when i put them in how tight do i do the end nut up ?????


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 4:57 pm 
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Bimmer Twinky
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drum brakes or disc brakes???

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 5:02 pm 
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998cc
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drums


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 5:17 pm 
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Hub nut torque is 60ft/lb for drum brake CVs.
This applies even if you fit tapered roller (Cooper S) wheel bearings to yours.
Yes, they do fit. Not much dearer than the ball bearings, have 2x the load rating and last 2 or 3 times as long.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 5:17 pm 
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Bimmer Twinky
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ok,,, here we go,,, with drum brakes there can sometimes be an issue with wear in the drive flanges,,, now these drive flanges (the things with the studs sticking out of them) are what the inner wheel bearing races run on & if they get a little wear they turn into a fair bit of wear in no time fast

so,,, with that in mind, i usually suggest that you fit the tapered type wheel bearings for starters (that`s all i ever fit for both drum & disc brake types) as they last very much longer &&&& you can adjust them at a later date "if need be"

When you rip the old bearings out you may find that they`re "Ball" bearing type,,, don`t worry, the tapered Roller bearings are the exact same dimentions & will fit straight it,,, but if you notice the "stub or shank" part of the drive flange has any distinctive wear ring or mark that you can feel along it`s length, then replace it too,,, any wear lip or wear ring or groove or such on this section of the drive flange will relate to play at the wheel assy even after new wheel bearings have been fitted

also,,, if the hub has any wear on the shoulder where the outer wheel bearing races butt against or seat into,,, then you may find that a slight skimming needs to be done to the wheel bearing spacer to effect a reduction in width to accomodate the amount of wear in that shoulder

so,,, after saying all that, i hope you have no apparent wera anywhere but the bearings because hten it`s just a straight forward job,,, bur any drive flange wear (replace drive flange with good one) & any hub wear (skim bearing spacer to suit) & you may need the help of a mini specialist or engineer to help sort it for you if you`re not allready """MIni wheel bearing replacement savvy"""

prendo???

:-)

Oh!!! & about 90lbs tight on the centre nut should do it

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 7:26 pm 
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998cc
998cc
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thanks alot guys so i will ring up car kraft monday morning and order the tappered copper s wheel bearings yes ? and they fit straight in


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 7:39 pm 
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Read my how-to on wheel bearings before fitting them.
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=40640

Do not assume that dropping new bearings into 40 year old hubs is plain sailing, if you expect them to last.
Do it right, and they will last for 100,000 miles or so.
Do it wrong.... :roll: and they might last 3 days.:mrgreen:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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