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 Post subject: oil seal spacer
PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 4:34 pm 
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998cc
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ive upgraded the wheel bearings to the tapered form and was wondeing if i still put the oil seal spacer in the hub. drum brakes.

thanks for any input

Leighton

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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 7:07 pm 
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The drum size one is too thin, the disc one is thicker to keep the seal back from the inner part of the bearing.

drum brake one (ball bearings) is only .094" thick, the disc one (used with tapered roller bearings) is .229" thick.

info source- MiniKing cattledog.

If you don't have the disc one, knock that seal in until it is just flush with the edge of its hole in the housing.

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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 8:29 pm 
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998cc
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drmini in aust wrote:
If you don't have the disc one, knock that seal in until it is just flush with the edge of its hole in the housing.


ok thankyou.

are both seals meant to be flush with their respective housings? and is there meant to be any movement/ space between the spacer and bearings?

Leighton

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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 9:29 pm 
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Outer one is always flush too. :wink:
If you are talking about this seal spacer, if you have (the right) one it locates the seal, you just push the seal in against it.

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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 9:34 pm 
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998cc
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no. the spacer between the bearings? :?

thankyou

leighton

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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 10:54 pm 
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Leighton wrote:
no. the spacer between the bearings? :?

thankyou

leighton

Read this how-to that I wrote up, that spacer in the middle is VERY important.
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=40640

It's important that it's the right thickness. Not always the case that the one in the kit is right, when putting new bearings into 40 year old hubs with wear in them.
If spacer is too thin, the bearings will get too much preload when the hub nut is tightened to specified torque (60ft/lb for drum hubs and 150ft/lb for disc hubs) they will `brinell' and destroy themselves very quickly. No, you cannot just leave the nut loose, it id a FWD assembly not a Holden front hub. :lol:
If spacer is too thick, the CV, drive flange and disc will not be located properly.

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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 11:56 pm 
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998cc
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good read. i just checked the drive flange and it was good. tight, but smooth. this indicates the bearings + spacer are in the clear,,, yeah?

however, with the hub sitting face down, there is a huge gap between the spacer and the bearings, with the spacer butted against one bearing there is a good 3-7 mm gap to the other bearing. in saying that i can hit the seals untill they're onto the bearings which removes this gap.

i dont know if that made much sense but hopefully it will translate.

whats wrong or is this normal?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 7:50 am 
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What brand are these bearings?
Was there a matched spacer included in the kit?
Some brands of ball bearing now come with the inner journal made wider by 1/2 a spacer width, those use NO spacer.
I've not see that done with tapered roller ones (yet)- these bearings are just standard industrial ones with a hand selected spacer added to the kit.

A pic or 2 would be helpful... otherwise PM me for my mobile no and we can discuss it.
:wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 9:26 am 
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998cc
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they're from mini king, the box doesnt have an brand name. but yeah i made sure the spacer and bearings had matching no's.

this "space"/ "gap"/ black hole" i worked out to be the bearing falling out of the outer race, (only when laid down flat). my question now is... when the driveshaft and drive flange are all in place and the hub is installed onto the car, is there any chance the bearing will move out of place creating this gap once again.

here is a picture:

Image

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 12:59 pm 
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It is possible to put the bearings in backwards, the thrust faces position are important! :?

But I think you have it right, it is more obvious with the taper rollers, they are all held together by the action of the nut and the fixed length of the CV shaft. 8)

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 5:28 pm 
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Quote:
they are all held together by the action of the nut and the fixed length of the CV shaft.


yeah that was what i was thinking when the bearing fell out.

the bearings are on correctly.

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