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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:20 pm 
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998cc
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Location: melbourne vic
Hi all again.

looking at putting the engine back into the mini very soon...
some questions....

apart from removing the webber...and alternator..and as i have no radiator installed yet i dont have to worry about that...is there anything else i should be doing..
im concerned about the drive shafts.....do i have to discanect these to install the engine or can i leave them conected for now drop the engine in and just keep them to the side ??? so i can keep the car rolling???/i realise ill have to undo some stuff to install the shafts back into the box but cant remember if i need to undo to install engine..???

thanks..

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:33 pm 
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What type of gearbox? pot joints/unis etc..


Shafts should be off and added once the motor is back in.

Leave the alternator on, no need to take it off.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:34 pm 
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998cc
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hmmmm im sure its a pot joint system...im not runing unis anymore.....the unit is covered by a black rubber boot....

see photo
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gear box.....its a remote unit....as i have a selector case ..no rods ..hope this is right..although its not installed yet....will be installing it later...the selector case that is..
so i guse i have to undo the top and bottom ball joints etc...to remove the shafts??
and then slide them in once engine is blted up??

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:53 pm 
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They look like pot joint driveshafts. You can just undo the top ball joint, drop the engine in, and slide the driveshaft back into the pot (along with all the balls) and do up the bottom ball joint. No need to remove the whole system. This is alot of "on your back under the car getting greasy" type work.

Trick is to grease up the pot joint inner race, and pop the balls onto the race one by one using the grease to "stick" the balls and keep them in the slots on the race, then slowly slide them into the pot without losing any balls.

While you're at it, get new rubber boots, and get the right metal clips from any CV joint place (you don't want to have to do this again unnecessarily!)

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Last edited by Lillee on Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:53 pm 
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yea you might get away with just the top ball joint as well.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:55 pm 
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Naah I've done it, clears it no problem, the tricky part is getting the race and all the balls back in!

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:59 pm 
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Co-incidently, the way that it's "meant" to be done is to take the pots off the diff, undo the whole drive assembly, and fit the balls and do up the boots on the work bench before installing them on the car. If you already have oil in the sump this is abit messier.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 4:51 pm 
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Lillee wrote:
Naah I've done it, clears it no problem, the tricky part is getting the race and all the balls back in!


Wrap them in cling wrap - that will keep them all together and you can leave it in the joints as it is not going to damage anything and will just get munched up and pushed to one side.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 8:42 pm 
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lol really? that's cool, I just keep trying until they're in :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 2:35 pm 
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998cc
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amazzing what glad wrap can be used for now days...
thanks for the replys...all good infomation there...

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