G'day D.I.Y-ers....


I know its pretty straight forward as to haow to make a cone compressor, but i was just wondering if anyone hade a very very very simple way of compressing them? and keeping the cones in a single pieceand also usable..

pics would be handy, and i do have the diagram out of vizards book too, but im interested to hear your ideas/theorys...

-Cam

(c'mon Kev, dont let me down )

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IS NOW BACK ONLINE AFTER SOMETIME..... SORRY TO ALL, FOR NOT REPLYING TO PM'S!!

Cone compressors can be very dangerous if they fail. if you have your hands up around the suspension trumpent and it fails, your hand can get jammed/crushed and theres no easy way to get it out... I wouldnt make my own compressor myself personally, mainly because there is a huge amount of force involved. There are two different threads used, one metric and one imperial depending on the time of manufacture- you probably know this allready. The times i have used compressors, i use a tap to clean the thread before use and put a bit of lube on the threads to stop binding etc.

im making my own compressor at the moment, its a bit of 1/2 inch gal water pipe, piece of 2x2inch 3mm plate with 1/2 inch hole in the centre, bout 35cm of 1/2inch threaded bar, and a 1/4in unf bolt(i think ) with the head cut off , threaded and screwed into the end of the threded bar, hard to explain, when its finished and welded ill post pix of it and how its made as well as my honda caliper piston compressor

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lookin for another clubby

Ben,before you start I'll send you a pic or two of mine. Yours sounds way too weak. There are several tonnes of force involved here, be bloody careful!

Anyhow, if you must make one:

1. Use only 1/2" UNF HI TENSILE machine threaded rod and grade 5 or 8 nuts. DO NOT WELD BOLTS ETC ONTO THE END OF THE ROD- VERY DANGEROUS IF IT LETS GO...
2. The plate on the bottom needs to come out past the 2 bolts/studs, as the hole thru the subframe has no strength around it, the X-member is hollow there. Plate needs to be 1/4" or preferably 3/8" thick.
3. Use a piece of 1-1/2" or 2" pipe as a spacer, at least 3" long, with a 1/4" thick plate washer welded on top. This is to get the nut up high where you can swing a spanner. You will need a 12" shifter or equivalent..
A brass thrust washer under the nut is a good idea.
4. Weld a nut on the very top of the threaded rod- makes it easy to screw in.
5. OIL THE THREADS, and the brass washer!
6. If the rod jams and will not screw in, the thread in the cone may be rusty. Have a squiz down the hole...

99% of Oz dry suspension Minis came with the early cones with 1/2" UNF thread. If the thread will not even start they may be the later 14mm ones, but they are rare over here.

ps I can't host pics on here as my MiniPortal piccy library is full..
I've put them on Yahoo Photos and posted the links below- it might work...

http://au.f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/k_g ... pg&.src=ph
http://au.f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/k_g ... pg&.src=ph

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanx for your replys lads.. Those pics didnt work for me Doc... e-mail them to me ([email protected] or [email protected]) and i can post the pics for u, or any pics for that matter!

-Cam

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IS NOW BACK ONLINE AFTER SOMETIME..... SORRY TO ALL, FOR NOT REPLYING TO PM'S!!

Pics coming shortly!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Here ya go Doc...

thanx for ya help boys!





-Cam

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IS NOW BACK ONLINE AFTER SOMETIME..... SORRY TO ALL, FOR NOT REPLYING TO PM'S!!

speaking of cone compressors,

i have been told that just a 6", 1/2" unf high tensile bolt will do

ie.. leave the car down, screw the bolt into the cone (so head rests on top of cone tower) then jack the car up, my question is, does the cone tower have enough strength to hold the cone there.. or would it be best to use a plate across the bolkhead for this method

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Expert in training

Kev's comment from above:

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

no, this is different

he was talking about the hole in the X-member of the bulkhead.. i'm talking lower than that.. down at the top of the suspension tower on the subfram itself

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Expert in training

OK, Sorry I wasn't following...

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

Yes a 1/2" UNF grade 8 bolt will work if subframe is out. Oil the threads. If it won't screw in, have a look inside- often they are full of water/mud/crud and the thread is rusted away.
Only way then is cut the trumpet.. or dismantle the top arm

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

subframe out? why

cant i just shove it down the hole and use a long socket?

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Expert in training

Dr Quote: Yes a 1/2" UNF grade 8 bolt will work if subframe is out. Unquote.

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"Show me the Mini!"

Hmmm im about to buy a set of HiLo's but now im not sure wheather im game enought to put them in myself.
karcraft sell the cone compressor for $100

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