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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 9:33 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 10:39 pm
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Location: Sydney, E. Burbs
I got a later 70Amp Lucas alternator (fitted to Rover minis) from the Uk. see here:
http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=34691&title=ALTERNATOR%20A127%2070AMP%20198...

There are two poles connectors on it, 2 wide spades and a narrow spade (these 3 spades are next to each other). My understanding is that the correct way to connect these is one of the poles and the two wide spades that are linked to it are connected to the solenoid (you just use whatever connection is more convenient) and the narrow spade connects to the alt. light.
And that's it.

Is this correct?

I didn't connect the alt. light yet but the pole is hooked to the solenoid battery pole etc.
When running the engine at any speed I only get DC12.5v approximately. This is despite the fact that the battery is at 12.7v when engine is off. The alternator still charges the battery (after running for awhile the idle battery voltage doesn't fall), but the running voltage remains at 12.5v.

Is this a problem? What could be the reason (belt too slack?)[/url]


Last edited by Mike on Mon Jun 22, 2009 5:59 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 9:55 am 
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Location: Greensborough, Victoria
You need the ignition light in the curcuit because..................
I have a lovely bunch of coconuts wrote:
The field windings are initially supplied via the ignition switch and charge warning light, which is why the light glows when the ignition is on but the engine is not running. Once the engine is running and the alternator is generating, a diode feeds the field current from the alternator main output, thus equalizing the voltage across the warning light which goes out. The wire supplying the field current is often referred to as the "exciter" wire. The drawback of this arrangement is that if the warning light fails or the "exciter" wire is disconnected, no excitation current reaches the alternator field windings and so the alternator, due to low residual magnetism in the rotor will not generate any power. However, some alternators will self-excite when the engine is revved to a certain speed. The driver may check for a faulty exciter-circuit by ensuring that the warning light is glowing with the engine stopped.


Otherwise get it tested by an auto elec on thier test bench.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 7:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 9:07 pm
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Location: Emu Plains, NSW
Have a read of this post :wink:
Cheers Pete
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... alternator

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 Post subject: Alternator from the UK ?
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:27 pm 
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Location: JIMBOOMBA QLD.
How come you decided to get one of these Alternators from the UK. I sell the same ones here for $165.00 My post will only be about $15.00 depending on postcode.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 7:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 10:39 pm
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Location: Sydney, E. Burbs
Thanks guys, I think its all down to the alt. light acting as an exciter. Which might mean that my old Bosch alt. wasn't faulty at all. It seems like a pretty weird way of doing it though as a burnt alt light means your alt. stops working...


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