i am envious can u see the little green gremlin on my shoulder.

There is not a great deal more to shear with the motor, things are getting closer now the head is getting done and the rest of the stuff should be done by the end of the week then we will do a final dry build to make sure it is all happy and we can get it together finally.


how is it not a real 998? It still has a 998 crank.

If we don’t I will cry myself to sleep, I would like a bit more, no reason why it can’t be done.

Here are a couple of crappy phone pics of the Bini blower mounted in the front of my Clubby they will not be the final brackets tho.







Thanks Nathan.

So it sucks in through the top drivers side and blows out the bottom into the FMIC then up to your previously built fuel injected throttle body set up correct? Where will you have your air filter/intake?
This is how I want to mount my SC14 but with out fuel injection and I'm also planing to use a crank sensor to get rid if the dizzy.
Where will your alternator go? My plan is to mount the SC low and have a small alternator above it or mount it at the back of the head.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Pretty much yes sucks in throw the oval section at the top, then out the bottom in to a right angle adapter to the front then the intercooler then up to the fire wall. But the old injection set up will only fit an SC12 as it was on the manifold from it. So for the time being it will be using a Metro Turbo HIF SU and Plenum. Then we will play with injection again down the track.




Most probably in the drivers wheel arch to stay away from the hot air from the intercooler but will have a guard to stop water and rocks hitting it.




If you look in the pic with just the bracket you can see that the alternator is lowered down as low as it will go before it hits the oil filter.

Hope that celars some things up Nathan.

Well I have sort of changed direction a little bit with this build, again some might say.

I am now going down the turbo path as ultimately I think it will be better suited to this build now. As the motor has been speced up so could handle more boost there for more power there for hopefully more fun

The new plane it to run a hybrid Garrett dual roller ball bearing turbo. Similar to what Pristic was running but with a smaller comp housing I think?
The core is from GT25R Family (part no.446179-12)
R32 GTR EX housing HPC coated
Comp cover AR.42
Rear housing AR.48
FR wheel 46.48mm
EX wheel 41.7mm
T25 EX flang

So should make the little 998 happy I think

Motor should done by next week I’m really hoping as its taking ages from the engine place but the end result will be good it I’m sure.

Here are some picys to look at.





The ports and chambers in the 12G940 Head what do you think?




Thnks Nathan.

I think it is time to show what has been happening over the last couple of months. There was a ‘bit’ of a hold up when the engine shop I had doing the work (a supposed good name place in SA) had a “laps in concentration” while enlarging the pockets in the block for the 1275 head. The block already had pockets in it, and this was their way of trying to get my CR down, as they “took the chambers as big as you could safely go”, 22.8cc what a joke So they took the pockets all the way to the 1275 head gasket line



When I saw it I wasn’t overly happy and had said to them at the start that if they didn’t think they could get them to 27-28cc I could sent it away to be done, but they said no probs we have done lots of mini stuff in the past. I then proposed a few problems I could see to them;

How do you get the rings in as they will pop out in to the pocket as soon as you tap the piston down? The next was the square edge of the piston would now be in the combustion chamber and would create a hot spot and or melt.

The solution they had for the first problem was to make a steeped, tapered ring compressor so it locates in to the block and is all smooth down the bore. So that was fine (which they did make one and it did work). The next was the sharp edge of the piston they suggested to lath to a gentle radios, again a fine solution to a problem that shouldn’t have been done in the first place.

I still wasn’t convinced or overly happy and thought I would ask a few people what they thought of the idea, pretty much all pointed to it being bad. After a miscommunication from me saying stop all work until further notice to the front desk and the front desk not telling the work shop, they had make the tool to get the rings in and had lathed my pistons.



So to cut an even longer story short I asked for them to redo a new block as that was not what I wanted, asked for or thought would be acceptable on a motor like this and a new set of pistons as that seemed silly having them like that. They said it would be fine and were/still more than happy with it but as it’s going to be very stressed to say the least, they came to the party pretty much. And did a new block up that I supplied, so they had to rehot tank it, bore it, redo the centre main strap, extra head studs, cam bearings, re blue print it all plus all the normal rebuild things.

All this takes time and they did not rush it at all, so 4 weeks later I got a redone block back. When we were putting it together (an extremely big thanks to the member that helped me out with it all) he found a few problems; one of the cam bearings was in backwards, the rear 11th stud that the engine shop had drilled and taped was not square to the block deck so much so the headgasket would not fit on with the stud in and really countless other little things down to tapping the temp sender in to the head as the late injected A+ head don’t have it drilled, they put the tapper tap in too deep so the sender doesn’t pull up and seal...

We finally got it all finished and the new motor is now together, in the car and running I will show lots of pics of it soon. Sunday will be a good test as I’m doing a super sprint at Mallala race track, let’s hope it holds together. Touch wood it will.

Sneky peaky tho





Sorry about the long post, rant over Nathan.

There`s a few problems that i can see straight away,,, there is a tad of blue paint on the end of one of the gearbox studs,,, the engine bay is painted the very same colour as my rally car,,, the short, tight "swan-neck" manifold is a short, tight "swan-neck manifold & those straight cut drop gears shouldn`t be there,,, there should be "here"



sorry,,, couldn`t resist

well done,,, I`m glad you called me tonight tho,,, when you`re ready let me know
cheers
Matt

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Im I correct that they machined the block to suit the head and not just the valvues

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

The block was already pocketed to suit the 1275 head but the machine shop didn't think they could take the head combustion chamber out any larger to reduce the CR so they increased the size of the pockets in the block till it was the size of the gasket, even though many other people can make a chamber larger than 22cc.

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4efte powered Clubman
supercharged 998 race car

Not that it will be going on now until the motor can prove that it will keep oil pressure as I don’t think the turbo will like losing oil at 100,000 RPM but here are some pics of the turbo manifold on a dummy block.






Should be a bit of fun. Nathan.

Has been a while in the making this build!

Was only updated on the issues you were having with the engine a week or so ago from ol' blakey... Nothing like getting things done twice is there, have been down that road myself. Not a fun journey!

Nice to see your getting there though, and with a roller bearing turbo...
Good stuff!

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Carl
Previous Owner & Driver of 1 Morris "It's not a Cooper!!" 850

Just a question, why are the pipes on each side traveling down than across? It seems to me (from the angle of the pic) that you could have simply aimed them towards the turbo manifold inlet and save yourself some extra sharp turns. I know you need room for the inlet manifold for the head and you need access to the nuts/studs but it just looks like it could have been a smoother flow...

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

The exhaust manifold is like it is because
1 didn't have an inlet manifold yet to make it clear so plenty of room was left for it
and 2 the turbo is quite large so it is positioned in a spot on the back of the engine to give the most firewall clearance which means it sits a little high and the manifold has to point back up and these were the best bends achieved. It really isn't bad though.

_________________
4efte powered Clubman
supercharged 998 race car

I made up a turbo manifold not long ago , I angled the bends down and across also. I made it for easier access to all the bolts on the head.

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with the fury of a Monkey Dishwasher aimed at your Purple

57 Morris minor
88 Rover Mini

In case anyone wants to know about the specs of my turbo motor are as there seems to be lots wanting ideas of what to do

The specs in the end are:

Head – A+ 12g940 with Swiftune 21-4N stainless 36mm in and 30mm EX , Swiftune road springs and standard A+ retainers, Bronze valve guide set on Inlet and K-lined EX guides, a heap of port work (127.8 CFM on the inlets and 91 CFM on the EX at 0.400” lift) and a little chamber work and its all held on with the ARP 11 stud kit.

Rockers – Minisport UK 1.3 roller tip on GR’s recommendation.

Camshaft – ATM SW10 for the run-in but will be a RE13 ground from a brand new blank cam, that is cross drilled. With Swiftune Alloy Duplex vernier timing gear set.

Block – Bored to 80” oversize with centre main strap, pocketed to sued head and 11 stud conversion. The Capacity now is 1061.8cc.

Crank – Wedged, bladed, nitrated, and polished, on 10/10 balanced.
Con Rod – Polished, shot penned and balanced with ARP bolts.

Pistons – 80” Over Hypatec with GR’s ring set, Teflon buttons to replace cir-clips and a 4.08cc dish in the top to get the CR down.

Flywheel, clutch - MED Ultra light steel billet flywheel and back plate, gray dot Clutch covers, AP Bonded clutch plate, bolt set locating washer, Timken 3W 5/8 thrust bearing, new Genuine clutch lever arm and new bearing plunger.

Harmonic balancer – Romac Gold Series Steel inner and alloy outer with a Swiftune longer bolt.

Gearbox – A rebuilt A+ box with an ATB diff from Swiftune.

Drop gears – From Swiftune Straight cut with roller bearing idler, primary gear featuring bronze top hat bush and unique floating inner primary gear bush with retaining clip.

Ignition – A Haltech E8 ECU with full squeal coil per cylinder, with a modified cam angel sensor. (As the last motor was met manifold injected)

Induction – ATM a 40mm webber but will be a custom hybrid Garrett dual roller ball bearing turbo blowing through an intercooler then a metro turbo plenum and carbie. Running between 5-14 PSI depending what gear you are in. Gota love the Haltech, the boost per gear will be finetuned to eliminate as much wheel spin as we can.

Exhaust – ATM LCB extractors with 1.75” hotdog and twin DTM muffler at the back. With the turbo it has a custom turbo manifold and dump pipe by a member on here, and will be a 2” system with the DTM muffler modified to take a 2” pipe.

There are more little things here and there but I think that most of it.

Some pics to show, some of the motor pics are on page 4. Didnt get as many pics as I should Have.












Hope it helps Nathan.