Hi,
just wondering if anyone has some tip/tricks on removing the front left hub from a '74 clubman with front drum brakes.
The drivers side came out easily with no effort, but the passenger side won't budge. It turns ok, just won't slide out.

Any ideas....

Use a Bigger FH

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

I think Ballistic means " A really BIG FAT Hammer"

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

if you are trying to remove the hub then you need to break the ball joints with a proper ball joint remover, not a BFH.
If you are trying to remove the drive flange out of the hub after you have removed the CV nut you can put the wheel back on loosely with 2 nuts and use it as a slide hammer, this should pull the drive flange out.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

or just use a big hammer.... just put the nut of the threads loosely then hit.

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

Where is it catching?
after the nuts are cracked & the joints as you have done on the other side you some times find one of the bottom joints stick with the nut and just spin. I place a Hydro jack (well any jack, Just be safe) under the bottom arm to hold the joint firm and the nut comes off.
Also if you cant get the hub off fromt he bottom you can wangle the jack so it pshies up the hub with the top arm (can't rememeber where I use) put will enable you to swing the hub fromthe bottom arm

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Yeah don't do that. It'll stuff the thread if you give it enough force. Follow the advice others have given so far

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I agree. You can belt the bejesus out of it with a hammer and it won't crack but a light tap using a ball joint separator/fork and apart they come... Worth their weight in gold!

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Pete...
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1968 Deluxe 1275
1969 Deluxe 'Scruby' 998 Looking for a roof skin...

sorry should of explained that better... and some common sense would tell u not to hit the thread... the nuts on the threads are to prevent u from hitting the threads if u miss.

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

especially as they are soooo dirt cheap these days.

Grease the arse out of the thread if you get a one with a bolt in it...the threads are pretty brittle if left ungreased..

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

it'll stuff the thread anyway - very bad practice, only do that if you're going to throw the ball joints away....

use a ball joint splitter FFS

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

You can remove balljoints on most cars by pushing on the threaded end with a puller, but hitting them there with a BFH (with a nut on or not) is very bad practice and won't work if they are tight. Go buy a proper scissor balljoint puller, they are not dear and good ones last a lifetime.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Shitty ones last nearly long enough to get it off, but not always

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Take it back, that's what supercrap etc warranty is for. If that breaks too, just repeat the process.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

if your talking about removing the drive flange from the hub you could use a hydralic press if you have access to one...

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1975 Leyland Mini: 1060cc - resto/ ex-hsc project.