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norton
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 10:32 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
Maybe you could fix it with a bleeder repair kit...

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I put one of these in my bike 9 years ago it was easy and has given no problems, I got it from a brake specialist
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 10:45 pm 
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Yep these are easy to get from any good brake place.
I did one for Twincammini recently.

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TheMiniMan
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 12:04 pm 
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Yep, i agree with both morris1100 & the good Doc,,, done them many times without trouble

they work a treat

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.
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cush
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 12:22 pm 
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So how would you suggest getting a stuck one out?

the RP7 and Vise grips haven't worked.
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awdmoke
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 12:29 pm 
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You need to break the corrosion "bond". My favourites are:
Give the nipple a good whack with a hammer, then try again.
Heat the nipple up with a blowtorch, then quench, then try again.
Weld a big nut onto the nipple, then try again.

The last one usually works when all else fails. Either that or you snap the nipple. :roll:

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Too many cars, and too little time.
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cush
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 12:38 pm 
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awdmoke wrote:
Give the nipple a good whack with a hammer, then try again.


Which direction?
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awdmoke
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 12:46 pm 
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Which ever way she likes it :wink:


Seriously, give it a good sharp crack with the hammer right on top of the nipple. It's stuffed anyway, so don't worry about breaking it.

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cush
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 12:54 pm 
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Notice how I specifically avoided using the "N-word" :)

Will give it a bash..
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Morris 1100
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 5:30 pm 
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cush wrote:
Notice how I specifically avoided using the "N-word" :)

Will give it a bash..

The idea is to hit the nipple hard once inwards to unlock the threads. Try a squirt with WD40 and some heat as well.
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 5:32 pm 
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Use a hot air gun to heat the caliper body up. And put vice grips on the bleed nipple.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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poeee
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:49 pm 
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So I pulled the LH caliper off the rally car. Looked to be in decent condition as is. Split both the one I just recoed and the one off the rally car. Pulled the seals out the half I need of the rally car caliper, cleaned it up with brake cleaner and air compressor, and cleaned the seal seats up with a small screwdriver. Carefully removed the new seals I put in the broken half and installed em in to the non broken half.

Put back on car, bleed... and now everything is bled and rear adjusted after my first initial drive, it' BRILLIANT!

Pistons were still good as gold in the rally car caliper, so once the broken bit is repaired it will just need seals.

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