ive had my pulsar dizzy modified to fit the mini by GR, im just curious how an eletric dizzy works with out an ECU. can you just put the whole thing in without any timing etc??

cheers

Leighton

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1975 Leyland Mini: 1060cc - resto/ ex-hsc project.

Short answer = NO.
It needs aligning and timing with a timing light, like a normal dizzy.
There are no points, obviously.
The spark occurs when the `star' thingy under the rotor just leaves the 2 blades sticking up vertically.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

it still needs to be set at top dead centre, and that means using a timing light.

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Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

ah makes much more sense now. so do you bolt it in then adjust it?

(as you can see im pretty new to this)

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1975 Leyland Mini: 1060cc - resto/ ex-hsc project.

Get somebody to fit it for you, it would be quicker than a detailed explanation here..
But basically, put motor on TDC #1 cylinder firing, turn dizzy body until star is aligned with the blades, and put #1 plug lead in the cap hole where the rotor is pointing (around 1 or 2 o'clock, usually).
This will allow you to start it, then use a timing light to adjust it when running.

Here's a pic of one installed- (in the wife's A+ 1275)


And another, in my 1360-


I love em, the best dizzy bang for buck about, IMO.
Plug leads shown are Bosch, they cost around $6 ea from Supercrap. GR uses this same Bosch cable in his `black' lead sets.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ok so i need to do the tappet and valve adjustment before i put the dizzy in and would you trust a normal mechanic with putting it in and adjusting it... ideally i would like to put it in myself or atleast learn how to put it in right for next time..

thanks again

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1975 Leyland Mini: 1060cc - resto/ ex-hsc project.

Pulsars etc have had these Hitachi made dizzies since the mid 80s until recently, any mechanic worth his salt should have no problems.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Curious, does the dizzy need to be modded by GR for it to work optimally? Currently just running in as it is with the new drive dog and seems to be driving fine.

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1965 Morris Mini Deluxe - 998cc SC12

Yeah they will work in stock form, but...
Graham modifies it by shortening the advance range and lightening the spring(s). This makes it more suitable for motors that have cam head etc performance mods, by getting it to advance sooner but limit how far it does. This has a dramatic effect on torque, compared to the std Pulsar dizzy.
For best performance set the timing to 25-30° at around 4000 rpm, not at idle.
Different motors need more or less, within this range, so experiment. Race cams (like my 1360 has, really) usually need more.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yer have a read through the how to in "A sieres mods"- about the advance curve and oil hole.

so Doc all i need is to adjust the valve and tappets and then get a timing light and maybe with a bit of internet assistance get it all good.

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1975 Leyland Mini: 1060cc - resto/ ex-hsc project.

The oil hole he drills is not really necessary, IMO. Every Pulsar dizzy I have stripped has had HMP grease in there, not oil.

If you buy one S/H, strip it, clean and repack with grease.
Mine has run for years with just Castrol HMP grease. No problems.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

sweet sounds good.

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1975 Leyland Mini: 1060cc - resto/ ex-hsc project.