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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:04 pm 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
I've written a 'howto' on installing 'megajolt' programmable ignition. Comments, feedback and suggestions welcome, and hopefully I've given everyone credit where it's due, even when it's not. All I've done is copy a few people, and put some details together

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=668571

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:30 pm 
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Looks great. I'm amazed how cheap it all was, I guess the only other significant cost is rolling road time to get it setup properly.

From a comparison point of view, is there much benefit from going from say a 123 distributor which has a number of pre programmed curves to megajolt?

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:53 pm 
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Fat Boy Dave wrote:
From a comparison point of view, is there much benefit from going from say a 123 distributor which has a number of pre programmed curves to megajolt?


that's entirely subjective - for your average Joe, with an average road car, I doubt there is any noticeable difference. For someone who has the ability and resources to make the most of it, then I am positive there are significant performance gains to be had.

I noticed a big difference when I went from a Pulsar dizzy to the Megajolt - smoothness and torque at low RPM was vastly improved, and I needed to lean out my carbs, indicating the improved fuel burn, and obviously resulting in lower consumption

edit: I forgot to put in the howto that I'm now able to run a .040" plug gap. The coil pack can drive a huge spark, the bigger the spark, the more fuel you can ignite, the more power you can get out of a single intake charge. Even with a spot on mixture and perfect points distributor, you can't run any more than .025" gaps. With the pulsar dizzy I was running .030" - I had to buy new plugs to run a .040" gap - BP6ES 11 instead of standard BP6ES. The 11 indicates 1.1mm plug gap, the standard gap is .8mm

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 4:19 pm 
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Simon that is awesome.....couldn't have come at a better time for me, and as per my pm the other day, it seems to be a bit closer than I thought....

Now the fun starts trying to source the edis and VR sensor up here in the sticks lol

Well done and thanks for your time and effort....


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 4:37 pm 
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that is great, something to add to my list for next time I'm back in the country...

do you just leave the distributor in-situ? can it be removed totally and plug the hole?

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 4:38 pm 
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superSeven wrote:
that is great, something to add to my list for next time I'm back in the country...

do you just leave the distributor in-situ? can it be removed totally and plug the hole?


I believe that Simon now has a welch (spelling?) plug in it.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 4:45 pm 
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superSeven wrote:
do you just leave the distributor in-situ? can it be removed totally and plug the hole?


ditched it completely, took out the drive and plugged the hole - 1 3/8" welsh (sp!) plug ;)

I did have the dizzy in there for a couple of weeks, and carried the coil around in the boot. Then I took the dizzy out and put a plate over the mounting boss thingy, but now it's gone altogether

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:24 pm 
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Thanks Simon - Although there's a lot of other stuff I need to do to my minis, this is definitely on the list, and I now know where all the concise, accurate and applicable information is when I need it.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:55 pm 
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great work simon, i need this on my boosted engine but i didnt know enough about it. :)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 7:09 pm 
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i have run .40thou plug gaps for years without anything more than standard ignition and now for the last 8yrs with a Luminition system.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 7:48 pm 
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I have run .040" plug gaps with a Pulsar dizzy and GT40R coil. Was fine except in the coldest winter days, when it would miss slightly at low rpm before warmed up.
Remember that plugs do wear and their gap then increases. These days I run .034-.036".

As for the question Megajolt or 123, you can adjust the Megajolt to have a perfect curve for YOUR engine.:mrgreen:
The 123 may have 16 curves, but how do you know one is right for yours.. or even near right? I know none of them are right for my modified 1360.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 8:45 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
As for the question Megajolt or 123, you can adjust the Megajolt to have a perfect curve for YOUR engine.:mrgreen:
The 123 may have 16 curves, but how do you know one is right for yours.. or even near right? I know none of them are right for my modified 1360.


That's precisely the difference between the MJ and 123. The 123 is great for those who either don't have the inclination or ability to set up a MJ, but want something which can be tweaked to an appropriate (but not optimal) advance curve without the need for a dizzy machine.

I love the idea of the MJ because I'm a geek, and I could easily see myself fiddling with the ignition map for months before I'd be happy with it :D

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 10:54 pm 
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Thread revival!

After what must be 2 or 3 years of sitting in the box i bought it in, i have now just yesterday and today installed and wired up my megajolt. It even started up first go, smooth as silk (after sorting out an unrelated ignition switch issue) So now i'm just fiddling around with maps. I have searched on the autosport labs forum and have downloaded a collection of different maps, but i'm just wondering if anyone here has developed their own they would like to share?

If you would like to share please PM me. I would particularly like to hear from those that have set up a map for supercharged as well as N/A.


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