As some of you may already know, I am new to this stuff.
Been buying tools to do this job, but am having problems with the 'random' orbital sander.
The problem began after I got a Bosch Random Orbital sander - but it only takes velcro based paper and for the life of me was not able to find wet&dry 800. I gave up and sent it back to Bunnings and got a refund.
I then got another from Sydney Tools (Dulwich Hill, Sydney), which I know found is an orbital sander but not 'random' (aka eccentric). However it has a clip system which accept normal sheets of paper.

My question is: Is there a difference between the 2? I only need to key the old paintwork in order to do the respray. Only selected parts where rust repairs are done will it be primed.

Am putting a lot of effort into this job. Am prepared to take it very slowly and do not want to cock up the job just because of some lousy grit unavailability.

Thanks
marc

you need a random orbital sander as it feathers the edges of the crap paint, the orbital sander will leave scratches and you probably wont see it through primer but once you get the top coat on it will be very noticable.

just feather the edges with the sander.... with say...... 400 then start with some wet n dry 600 (hand sanding) then Hi-fill the car with primer, then hand wet n dry 800 and finally top coat - (worked for me) but as with most things there will be a heap of different ways of preperation and spraying.

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1975 Leyland Mini: 1060cc - resto/ ex-hsc project.

Prep work prep work an more prepwork, any areas that have crows footed will need to be taken back to bare metal and etch primed......Oh the joys of paintin a car

You're probably better keying the old paint with 240 grit or using one of 3M's scotchbrite pads with similar abrasiveness, 800 is far too fine.

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When keying paint it is important to use a sharp key although some people prefer to use a 50c piece.

In this scenario, someone else's car is preferable too.