Hi Guys,

I've done a quick search, and it appears from several posts that the floor plans of Aussie mini's do not change regardless of gearbox. I've also read quite a few posts about people changing from remote to rod change, so i'm aware this is possible. But I am yet to find anything that says that clears up for sure that you can "go backwards".

My reasoning for this is that I've recently picked up another clubby that was rod change but had spun a shell bearing on #4 piston. I pulled the motor out and went to chuck in a spare motor I had in another mini in the backyard. When I went to pull it out, I noticed it was a remote gearbox with Hardy Splicer instead of the usual rod change with pot joints I've used (I obviously paid a hell of a lot of attention when I bought this one :-/ ).

Anywho.. I pulled the motor out regardless and dropped it into it's new shell, switched the shafts over from the pot joints to the hardy splicers and removed the old rod change setup from under the body. I've pulled the bracket off the old shell that supports the back of the massive cast linkage protector thingy-ma-jig and am intending on just dirlling holes through the floor to bolt this onto. I'm hoping that this will be all that will be required, but in my not quite so youthful anymore exuberance, dont want to get halfway through and make a tit of myself. I much prefer to do that at the start or end of a project.

Can anyone shed some light on this for me please?

Cheers

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-Wasabi
1972 Clubman - Daily Driver
1962 850 - EW1 Powered

Yes floor pans are the same except the roddy one has 2 holes and bumps where the rodchange shift box mounts bolt on.
Also the square hole for the shifter isn't quite the same, trim it to clear the remote if needed.

You need to make sure the remote rear bracket isn't bent, many are.
Straighten if needed.

Put the motor in the car, fit remote with the bracket bolted on.
Centre punch the floor through the 3 bracket holes.
Drill the floor with an 8.5mm drill bit.
Note- 2 holes are on top of the tunnel, just in front of and behind the crossmember. Watch you get them in the right spot.

The bracket must be tight against the rubber mount on back of remote. If it's not, you will rip the mount...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Beauty, thanks for that Doc. I'll give it a go on Friday and hopefully all will be well. The bracket seems to be straight so that should be ok. Hopefully a test drive on Friday Arvo

_________________
-Wasabi
1972 Clubman - Daily Driver
1962 850 - EW1 Powered

yer my clubby has a remote innit so you'll be right.

Okie Dokie,
Got under the Mini on friday and started getting everything in place. after much swearing and not much skin on my knucles anymore, the bracket was installed and everything mounted ok.. Well when I say OK, I mean that it nearly worked

I had to "massage" the the tunnel slightly to accomodate the new remote box, but that was ok. When I drilled the holes for the bracket, the back one matches up with where it would have been in the old shell, but the other two holes seem to go under the cross member. They look like they are about 1/2" - 1" further back than they should be. So I've left that for now, not wanting to drill any extra holes. I had a look at the motor to make sure everything was ok, and now the steady bars dont line up. It's like the whole motor assembly is sitting about 1/2" - 1" closer to the firewall than it should be.

Obviously I didnt notice this before because I didn't have the remote section on the box pusing up against the tunnel so there was enough play in the mounts to get the steadys to line up. Now I dont even think I'll be able to get an airfilter on the carby it's that close. So what have I done wrong? Do the engine mounts change between Hydro and Dry subframes? Has my engine bay developed some kind of Dr Who/Tardis issue where the inside space doesn't correlate to the outside size? Are the crossmembers different widths or positions (I forgot to measure this while I was swearing at random things in the shed)?

Anyone got any ideas?

_________________
-Wasabi
1972 Clubman - Daily Driver
1962 850 - EW1 Powered

Unless the shell has taken a hit, there should not be any dramas. You may experience space limitations with some carby/manifold combinations, but factory carburation and filters should fit OK. I would guess that if the front subframe mounts bolted up OK (ie no gaps) the subby should be in the correct position relative to the body shell.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.