I'm surprised noone has put anything up in relation to suffering wheel bearings

Get the preload right, and they should be fine.
Cooper S Timken kit is the same as on a Ditch Witch trenchdigger.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Not sure i follow. How does it affect wheel bearings?

The vehicle doesn't change in weight, the cornering and braking forces don't change. If anything putting a bigger wheel on means less rpm for a given vehicle speed - surely a bearing saver if anything?

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Answer the Question....
BUT always Question the Answer

The weight of the wheel increases. And its the rotating mass attached to the bearing that will kill it. The wider radius creates a larger moment that although rotating slower puts more load on the bearing. And then youve got corners and more tyre on the ground and more im sure other people will bring up.

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Simplify and add lightness

Big wheels = bigger offset outwards = more static and dynamic loading. But the biggest killer of front wheel bearings is too little or too much preload.
Read my writeup in the how-to forum.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Phil I'm hoping to have it pretty close to roadworthy by the end of the year, after it is painted it will need to be put back together and the things like wiring, driveshafts, exhaust and radiator will need to be done.

The Tyres are Continental sportcontact, I got them in through california USA via germany. Cost me just on a grand to my door for the set. Pretty expansive but the mini will be a weekend car and shouldnt do to many miles.

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

Kev my wheels are offset way into the guards, looks like they are sitting exactly where they would with spacered drums on, would this make it easier on the bearings?

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

that's what it looked like to me - and yeah, much easier on the bearings - it's the wide offset that kills them (and poor preload)

Looks great Brad, love the wheels.

Yea they are only 14x6 so better than 13x7's and the rolling diameter is similar to 13's, mine are 505mm OD 175/50R13.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Greater offset is certainly a concern - and would add to bearing load. However i beleive the moment of inertia of the wheel would have little to no affect compared to the loads seen during cornering and braking. There would be at least a factor of 10 between the two load types.

The width of the tyre and wheel themselves would have no affect on bearing load (except aforementioned offset). A larger contact patch doesn't mean more loading, it just means there is more area to spread the load and therefore less work for the tyre to do.

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Answer the Question....
BUT always Question the Answer

Love them wheels, and that motor slots in so nicely. This is gonna be another great conversion. Hope you can find a cheaper source of tyres, looks like too much fun to only drive on weekends.

Madmorrie

What brand wheels are they? They're hot!

They are actually Yokohama wheels. They came in to oz from japan on a honda civic built for rallying. They weigh around 3kg each.

The shell was dropped at the painters this morning, lets hope for a good outcome!

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

Looking good. Fingers crossed for ya.

Can you post details of how the conversion to 100mm pcd was done. I think a few would be interested in this.

Cheers
Madmorrie

Sure, well the secret in doing this is in the wheel stud size. You have to go to a bigger stud, i think i went the next thickness up, they are an old holden/chev stud. With them you can open up the original mini stud hole on the flange. Mine were done by sainty (drag racing team) here in sydney.

They redrilled the 4x100 pcd into the flanges and by using the larger stud it took out the entire original hole.They had to drill the rear drums as well. The front im running camira discs so the rotor is already 4x100. Cost me close to $200 for the work.

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs