I'v taken the diff out of a spare remote box as I was looking for a 3.647 diff. Lucky me I only had to look in one box. I now have to get the Pinion out, how will I lock it into second so I can undo the nut. I don't want to stick a screw driver in the gears.

The box still under the motor want be so much trouble as I put it in second before I take the diff off but I'm sure Ill come up against some thing else to ask

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Is it a remote (up to 73) or rod shift (73 on)?

On a remote shift take the speedo drive end cover (about 7 bolts and 2 nuts) off. Then look in the gearbox and you'll see a funny looking slider that has 2 fingers pointing at each other, it sits on top of 3 'rods'. (These are the gear selector rods.) Thats the interlock to stop you selecting 2 gears at once. Take that out and then push (I think) the middle Rod Into the Gearbox (Should engauge 4th Gear) and the upper rod pull towards you (should be first), you may have to rotate the diff pinion a little to allow first gear to be selected. Presto, it's locked up and you can undo the pinion. DON'T forget to put the interlock back in!!

On a Rod Shift, under the RH Diff output cover (which you would have already removed when you took the diff out) there should be a tiny spring poking out. Carefully remove that spring. The spring also sits in a steel sleave (about 1/2" in diameter and about an inch long). Remove the sleave and there may also be a small ball bearing come with it, if not use a magnet to remove it too. Then rotate the selector shaft (the one that normally connects to your gear shifter) 180 degress (or there abouts). Using a lever (Tyre lever is good) GENTLY move select 1st Gear by levering the syncro hub to your left (it has a gear cut in to it). This then selects 1st gear. If you look under the syncro hub as you are doing this, you see a set of 3 small steel forks and the top one will move. Then using a pin punch (about 8 - 10 mm but long) GENTLY tap the middle one in toward the gearbox. Again you may need to rotate the shafts a little to allow it to go in. This will then select 4th and again the gearbox is locked.

Don't leave any parts out when re-assembling, could be bad!

Jim, on a 4 synchro box, use 1st and 4th gear.
On a 3 synchro box use 2nd and 4th (BMC said to, as 1st on these is a bit weak).
DO NOT USE 2ND AND 3RD, OR YOU CAN BREAK GEAR TEETH...
I have seen it happen.

Bring it over if you can't undo the nut.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

How you going to do it now, you sold the boat

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Method 1- Put a plank on it and drive the Fraud up to hold it.
Failing that, my mate up the street has a setup using a scaffold pole under his floor beams.

Method 2- I have a 250lb/ft Hitachi electric rattle gun at work.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Kev talked me into it. Change of planes we are going to take the block off the 3 syncro box and put it onto the Remote change box. Why, we many but the remote box looks good , will have a syncro for first and all ready has the 3.647 in it. Just need a few things and a good clean up

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Use 1st, If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!!