Hi all, as the title suggests I would like to install a rover auto subframe to my Moke, the Moke is the same (almost) as the dry mini subframe.

Any pointers on the best way to mod the towers or body to fit?

Cheerio

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Cool stuff!!

I'm fitting one of those frames to my van and I'm either going to;
A- Cut out the cross member and weld in a crush pipe to take the std rover bolt or,
B- Drill the towers of the rover frame to suit the current cross member and weld some nuts inside the suspension tower to suit.

When it comes to the front and the rear mounts I'm just going to wait and see what's needed

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Here's what I'd do (from experience with rover subframes in aussie cars):

Either:

a. use an aussie subframe as intended, or
b. use rover subframe but ditch rubber subframe mounts in favour of competition / solid mounts.

Crush tubes aren't necessary in the tower tops, the bolt is stepped and will only go in so far, however that applies to the rubber mounts. It would be a good idea in a solid setup.

Thanks for your replies.
Decided on drilling holes, welding nuts underneath and now (apparently) it will bolt straight in.

Only concern I have is the nice flat space above the rubber cone is a bit rough now (I sunk the nuts in so they don't stick out) where I have welded around the nuts, will the rubber cone ever hit the flat section? Trying to think how to explain my question better?

The metal edge of the cone is about 10mm high, does the rubber ever compress far enough to touch the inside top of the tower?

BTW I did try and find an Aussie auto frame, but have given up without luck (yep I know I'll get a flood of free ones now!).
It was pretty easy to put the nuts in (stock wheel nuts BTW fit nice once you drill appropriate holes) so as long as that is the only 'problem' easy peasy!

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Cool stuff!!

Can't say whether or not what you've done is a problem, why didnt you just weld the nuts on top of the subframe? You need a spacer in there anyway between the tower and crossmember (normally made of rubber).

Thanks Harley, but I think the rubber spacer is only 3mm think, might use washers if need to, happy to make a solid joint without rubber.

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Cool stuff!!

Hard to say if the nuts will affect the cone, I'd be willing to bet even if the cone dose compress far enough to hit the nuts it should still work properly. It may over time just wear some groves/holes in the cone where it hits the nuts but I don't think it will be a life and death problem .

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Hard to say if the nuts will affect the cone, I'd be willing to bet even if the cone dose compress far enough to hit the nuts it should still work properly. It may over time just wear some groves/holes in the cone where it hits the nuts but I don't think it will be a life and death problem .

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.