Decided to give the little motor a taste of Molybond.
I figured..... if the stuff is super slippery, the idle should pick up.
So as I squeezed the stuff in, I was listening closely........yep... by the
time the last drop went in there was a noticeable pick up in idle speed.
Unfortunately the car is not fitted with a tacho so the exact increase wasn't
measured.
Nevertheless I had to readjust the idle speed. Also, gear changes are positively smoother.

oh yeah I think molybond came in a thread not long ago... One of the engineers, can't remember if it was David or GR was saying that they mix it with the oil for some of there hotter motors... They also said not to let it sit too long because it will seperate out of the oil,,, interesting idea...

I would want to play with it myself first because me personally, I'm not sure how the Syncros would like it... I know that Molyblond reckon its ok for gearboxes but me being the nutter that I am, I'd want to check for myself, worst case I'd need to run desiel oil thru it for 200km to clean the motor out if I didn't like it Oh there I go again carrying on like a country bumpkin, swollowing spiders to catch flies... The desiel oil trick works great if you're about to rebuild a motor, it just makes cleaning everything after you pull it down a lot easier I have found.

Let us all know how it goes long term,,, I reckon it sounds pretty interesting

So what effect do you think it might have on the syncros?

Its probably just paranoia, it won't do any damage not at all. Its just that when the synco cones engauge they need to dispell all the oil out from off their landing, if the oil becomes to "slippry" it can make it harder for the synco cone to engauge... but look Molybond say that its good for gearboxes so I don't even know why I'm cautious... Its probably me just being a nutter,,,

HI MG Rocket
Don't be worried about using molly in your engine it won't do any harm to your syncros or any thing else in your motor or gear box.
When we run the motors on the dyno we and drop them into gear and
take a reading, drop the oil out mix it with the molly and take another reading,it does'nt make a lot of differance only about 2hp but at least it's an improvement not a loss the oil temp was at 200deg f.
I,ve run it in both race cars and road cars for years and it really does look after things specially now that they have removed the zink out of the oil.
Graham Russell

I have always wondered why not motorbike oil? Seems similar setup to a mini. Motor and gearbox share the same stuff.

I was told by a mechanic that it was no good. Why would that be? Am I blonde and missing the obvious?

_________________
1964 Cooper UK 970 S 'CZ 4289'

Motorbikes with combined engine gearbox oil all have overhead cams, with decent lubrication (oil bath or spray) provided to the cam lobes.
Minis and old pushrod V8s do not, their cam is hanging in the (oily) breeze of the crankcase and just getting whatever oil is splashed up on them.
As GR said, the zinc phosphate has now been removed from most motor oils. Its purpose was to provide boundary lubrication and prevent cam lobe and lifter wear.
Molybond does a similar thing. BTW we all used to add it to motor oils back in the 60s, it ain't new.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc. I best listen to the guy then.
Do you use Moly at all?

_________________
1964 Cooper UK 970 S 'CZ 4289'

I guess too the other thing it would be good for in the A series motors is the rocker gear, I think that it would help keep your rockers better lubed. Told you I was probably being a nutter regarding the gear box GR are you better off mixing it with your oil before pouring it in, in your experience?

where do you buy this stuff??

good if yuo use it from the get go with a recon engine?

I used to add Molybond additive to oil (Shell Super 20W/50) back in the 60s, as I said above.
I do use a bit of molygrease (Castrol LMM) to assemble cams and lifters.
It stays on there to protect during initial startup.
I used to use cam assembly lube, but found it drained off too fast after assembly.

Graham told me if using Molybond, mix it with the oil first, then pour in.
And don't put it in an engine which is being stored- being heavy it will all fall out of suspension and lay there doing nothing in the bottom of the box.

DON'T put the additive in a brand new engine, the rings etc may not bed in properly.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So is there any tangible benefit in running this in a roadie using KMX? What purpose did the zinc (phosphate?) additive play?

_________________
Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Is this an additive which is ordered especially in, or will you find it in the usual auto shops?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

(bold emphasis in the quote is mine)

Isn't that a contradiction? Reducing friction and wear is one thing and desirable... but it seems opposed to "accelerating the running-in process" which involves moving parts bedding into eachother.

_________________
Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

(waits for GR to comment).....

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.