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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 11:03 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
My 2 bob...
The stuff does work, the reason manufacturers don't put it in oil is it will drop out of suspension in storage.
Note that YES they DO put it in greases, eg Castrol LM and LMM, Valvoline molygrease, etc where this problem doesn't exist. :wink:


Fair enough Doc with your experiences with (I guess) Molly in Oil, it is always good to get other's experiences (keeping an open mind).

Yes, they do add it to greases, howver it is a total formula and it is appropriate for that application for which the grease was intended for, otherwise we'd put CV grease in our engines :shock: :lol:


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 11:41 am 
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998cc
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I ran Maolybond in my sc/cr 3 synchro box in the early 1970s when I was using my Cooper S as a daily driver and for regular interstate commutes when it was high in the rev range for long periods. Gearbox didn't seem to suffer. Laygear bearings gave up in 1981 but no other dramas.

I just tried Nulon's new 10/40 synthetic oil in my Land Rover which also uses a 1950s designed pushrod V8 engine. Nulon claim it reduces friction by 32%. Seems to run smoother and quieter. Don't think I'd be game to try it in a Mini though with its common lubrication system..

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 11:52 am 
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First of all, let's get one thing straight, Molybond is not a friction modifier, If you read my post I quoted, that it fills in the lows creating a very slippery surface and a very hard surface. I WILL NOT RECOMMEND ANYTHING THAT I HAVNE'T TESTED THOROUGHLY.
As Kevin(Drmini) said, this product has been around for years, and It has been around for years because it is a good product. I have used this in alot of gearboxes and engines in both race and road cars without any problems for years. Some of the mini's have done 4 x 6hr races and have not had to rebuild the gearbox or engine as yet.
GT mowog,
You must know alot more than the multinational car manufacturers, cam developers around the world, as they all appear to be having trouble with flat tappet camshafts in regards to wear, because of the zinc and sulphur/phosphate has been taken out of the oil.

GT mowog wrote
Quote:
It does very little for lubrication of metal to metal components.


Take a look at some of these quotes from various sites from around the world and let me know what you think.

From the site
http://www.camcraft-cams.com/index.php?page=may-2008
Quote:
ZDD+ has the proper combination of Zinc and Phosphorus to give the scuff protection equivalent to the old SF oil (Zinc alone doesn’t do it) while retaining the improved quality of the newer oils. Remember the ZDDP level has been significantly reduced in ALL oils intended for highway use including the diesel oils. Even many of the old additives like the recently reintroduced General Motors EOS have less Zinc than they used to. It should be part of every oil change in all flat tappet engines and of course is critical in flat tappet race applications. Don’t be sidelined by a flat cam.

From Site
http://milwaukeesynthetics.com/uploads/ ... Tappet.pdf

Quote:
Engine oils contain anti-wear additives and the most com- mon anti-wear chemistry is zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZnDDP), which contains a combination of zinc and phos- phorus. In 2005, in an effort to guarantee catalytic con- verter performance in new vehicles, the American Petro- leum Institute (API) and International Lubricants Standards Approval Committee (ILSAC) instituted API SM and IL- SAC GF-4 quality standards which reduced the maximum limit for phosphorus to 0.085% and 0.080% respectively. Both API SM and ILSAC GF-4 specifications also contain a minimum phosphorus content of .065% and .060%.
Previously, API SL/ILSAC GF-3 oils were restricted to 0.10% phosphorus level, so a concern arose that oils con- taining lower levels of zinc/phosphorus could provide insuf- ficient protection in high pressure areas of flat tappets and camshaft lobes found in many older cars and high- performance engines.


From Site
http://www.mail-archive.com/oldsmobile@ ... 01291.html
Quote:
Both Crane Cams and Comp Cams offer a additive to use for break in.
They also say GM's (EOS) Engine Oil Supplement also has a high zinc content. Interesting, that neither Crane or Comp Cams suggests to use it after initial break in. No benefit after that.



GT mowog, I would also like to ask you a question, have you ever done a test with molybond in both road and race cars, as I have? I recommend this product because of the years of testing I have found it to be a good thing. But, each to there own. I have many products on the shelf here, will gladly let anybody have from manufacturers who claim they have developed the best friction modifiers and then claim outlandish results in HP increase, Engine life and economy. But from my results from testing these products they have all been failures, AND, in some cases they lost HP.
If the molybond is not as good as I am saying, then why are all CV joints lubricated with a molygrease, which is a metal on metal contact?

Happy to have a chat about it, give me a call or come on down for a cuppa.
Matt, better send a box of wagon wheels :wink:

Graham Russell

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 3:14 pm 
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GR wrote:

GT mowog,
You must know alot more than the multinational car manufacturers, cam developers around the world, as they all appear to be having trouble with flat tappet camshafts in regards to wear, because of the zinc and sulphur/phosphate has been taken out of the oil.

GT mowog wrote
Quote:
It does very little for lubrication of metal to metal components.



GT mowog, I would also like to ask you a question, have you ever done a test with molybond in both road and race cars, as I have? I recommend this product because of the years of testing I have found it to be a good thing. But, each to there own. I have many products on the shelf here, will gladly let anybody have from manufacturers who claim they have developed the best friction modifiers and then claim outlandish results in HP increase, Engine life and economy. But from my results from testing these products they have all been failures, AND, in some cases they lost HP.
If the molybond is not as good as I am saying, then why are all CV joints lubricated with a molygrease, which is a metal on metal contact?

Happy to have a chat about it, give me a call or come on down for a cuppa.
Matt, better send a box of wagon wheels :wink:

Graham Russell


Be careful what you ask here GR......... :wink:

(And I did once come down for a cuppa...)


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:38 pm 
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Fantastic discussion here folks, some really interesting stuff 8)

Graham, what tangible benefits could be expected blending molybond with a SG rated engine oil in a road car? Will it be noticably smoother, quieter, produce more HP, longer lasting, ... ?

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 5:33 pm 
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Oh dear, worry, worry...

Joined: Fri Jun 19, 2009 5:31 pm
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Location: North Rocks
HI Simon
Molly will do it's job no matter what oil it's mixed with, it normally makes gearboxes smoother to change and possibly quieter, as for feeling the hp differance at the front wheels i doubt it as for making things last longer
you'll tell me but just remember it won't fix something thats all ready broken.
Just a side note in all the machinery at work auto lathes and centre lathes iv'e run molly bond in the gear boxes with excellent results,
The big centre lathe with very big straight cut gears and a top speed of only 750 rpm really screamed at top speed but the molly all but halved
the the noise much to the delight of every body in the work shop
Graham Russell

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 5:43 pm 
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Thanks Graham :)

Over what period of time would you expect the molybond to separate out of the oil if left parked?

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 5:51 pm 
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1275cc
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The other question is about heat,
With the Molybond in the oil and its doing its job there is less friction therefore less heat in the oil which should keep the oil within its viscosity range for longer between services.

Have I got this right or am I on the wrong track ?




.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:09 pm 
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Hmmm, I'm 98% convinced to try KMX after this thread, I've been a HPR30 stalwart up till now.
I just want to know, can we trust Kmart, or will they change the formulation on a whim and leave us running crud oil?:?
Also, is it only availible by the bottle, or can you buy it in larger quantitys?

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:15 pm 
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minimanic wrote:
Hmmm, I'm 98% convinced to try KMX after this thread, I've been a HPR30 stalwart up till now.


I used to be too, but I've been using KMX for a while now and it's been all good.

minimanic wrote:
I just want to know, can we trust Kmart, or will they change the formulation on a whim and leave us running crud oil?:?
Also, is it only availible by the bottle, or can you buy it in larger quantitys?


Kmart don't make it, they just sell it. It's either Shell or Castrol (BP) oil rebranded as Motorpro.. someone better informed can tell you which ;)

I've not seen it available in greater than 6L bottles, but when 6L costs $20 (less when its on special), who really cares?

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:15 pm 
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1098cc
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Not hijacking the thread, but noticed Big W has "Freeway" 20W50 in 6 litre packs for around $21.......

Could it be KMX but a different packaging?

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 9:46 pm 
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ET 13.457 seconds , OH YEAH !!!!
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minimanic wrote:
Hmmm, I'm 98% convinced to try KMX after this thread, I've been a HPR30 stalwart up till now.
I just want to know, can we trust Kmart, or will they change the formulation on a whim and leave us running crud oil?:?
Also, is it only availible by the bottle, or can you buy it in larger quantitys?


You'll notice on the back label it says suitable for high performance turbo engines. It's got to be a good oil for them to recommend that otherwise there would be a lawsuit against them if it didn't perform or caused a problem. As long as it says that it's still a high quality oil and certainly wont be 'crud'

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:36 pm 
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1098cc
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Mini Mad wrote:
minimanic wrote:
Hmmm, I'm 98% convinced to try KMX after this thread, I've been a HPR30 stalwart up till now.
I just want to know, can we trust Kmart, or will they change the formulation on a whim and leave us running crud oil?:?
Also, is it only availible by the bottle, or can you buy it in larger quantitys?


You'll notice on the back label it says suitable for high performance turbo engines. It's got to be a good oil for them to recommend that otherwise there would be a lawsuit against them if it didn't perform or caused a problem. As long as it says that it's still a high quality oil and certainly wont be 'crud'


Mini Mad has a good point here that is well worth remembering about ANYTHING,,, not just car related,,,

In the land of Aus,, If a product fails to perform as described then it is deemed not to be of merchantable quality,,, its worse than just false advertising,,, companies get bankrupted over it and people can do hard time (in extreme circumstances).... Its pretty serious bussiness...

I don't know anything about K mart oil with regards to quality, I don't use it, I've only heard GR's opinion/findings... But if thats what it says,, then thats what its gotta do :shock:

It applies to everything here in australia... thats why it supprises me when I see people talk about products failing on mass and yet you can still walk into a shop and buy them... Kinda curious... don't you think? :shock:


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:54 pm 
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Shops still sell cheap rubbish here because most people don't bother complaining when/if they fail to work. They just vote with their feet. :lol:
Next time your Supercrap (or other) balljoint puller (or whatever) breaks, TAKE IT BACK- it's the only way they will learn. :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 3:31 pm 
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Yeah,

After they have a pile of broken crap lying around to return to the supplier, they will think twice before ordering that item again!

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