Hi all,

well i replaced the clutch today and i am not quite sure if wat i did was correct so would love to hear off someone who has done if before if i have done it correctly!!

I lined the A on the pressure plate to the 1/4 on the flywheel
Step 1 - Putting .........this thing...............on.


Step 2 - Putting clutch plate in


Step 3 - Clutch plate in place


Step 4 - Flywheel


Step 5 - flywheel view from top


Step 6 - locking nut thing and bolt


Step 7 - nut and bolt in place (i did tighten them up)


Step 8 - Pressure plate (all screws when completely through the sheet metal locking tabs as i heard if they dont it can cause sudder)


Step 9 - putting belhousing on


Step 10 - hoping it all went together correctly!!


I have also given the bellhousing a sand back and respray so it actualy does look nicer now, this was just so i could see whether or not i have done the clutch correctly!

if i did something wrong please tell me......if i didnt please tell me as well!!!
Thank you all!!!!

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Hi-Ho Silver LS1275
Charlieeeeeeeee Come to Candy Mountain!

Did you assemble and check the diaphragm spring was flat when all tightened down?

Did you 'lap' the flywheel to the crank and bed it in - tighten - rap with a rubber mallet - loosen the bolt and repeat 3 times

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

No i didnt do either of those i guess my idea of taking pictures and putting it up here is working, i made sure everything i did could be undone just incase i was wrong!

I was speaking to aaron befgore and he mention what torque i did that main nut up to and i didnt no what was the appropriate number, is there any number or is it just making sure its pretty bloody tight?? at the moment its only spanner tight (i wasnt swing off the spanner either :p)

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Hi-Ho Silver LS1275
Charlieeeeeeeee Come to Candy Mountain!

Read this
http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatagory/CLUTCH/DisplayType/Technical%20Information/DisplayID/153/ArticleV.cfm

and this

http://www.calverst.com/cc110f.htm

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Great set of Pics (did I say that right?). On a standard set up (which is what it looks like you have) the backing plate, flywheel and diaphram spring are indexed for balance. If you look very carefully at all the posts on the backing plate, one of them will be stamped 'A', this normally goes through the flywheel hole nearest your timing marks and again look carefully at the diaphram bolt holes and one of them will have 'A' again (or usually part of the letter). If you've not checked I would loose any sleep over it, but is is alway nice to put it back the way that it was intended.

dont know about that... the only thing i would sudgest is make sure you put a locking tab washer on your flywheel and make sure you torque it up properly.. also the presure plate needs thoese lock washes




wouldn't worry to much about that either, like GT said

you also dont need that bent clutch arm anymore.

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Jay: 0431404607

Whats the correct torque for the flywheel tho?

i no the flywheel and clutch plate had an "a" couldnt see any other on it tho

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Hi-Ho Silver LS1275
Charlieeeeeeeee Come to Candy Mountain!

152Nm/112lbf ft for the flywheel bolt

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1965 Morris Mini Deluxe - 998cc SC12

I would lose the flywheel bolt locktab if fitted, they are made from too soft steel these days and can compress, causing the flywheel to come loose.
Use Loctite 262 on the bolt threads instead.
Works for me (and a certain well known Sydney Mini race engine builder).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.