just take the upper control arm out, clean it up & paint it while its out, make sure the pin & bearings are good & shove it back in with some Hi-los & new ball&cup kits

it`s the best way & saves the thread in the donut stripping half way through the job & squishing your fingers/thumb in the process

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Hopefully, the big end has not taken the crank journal with it. First thing I'd look at.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

TMM: it's for another subframe i want to get blasted and repainted. everything must go!



that's the concern. well it is and it isn't, imo if i'm getting into the engine, everything can come out and be checked, cleaned and or replaced. The question if the crank has been shaved, or rods bent etc .. is it worth fixing those parts if the rods/pistons etc in there are better than standard and worth keeping, or buying a new ready made block/short motor.

I guess once the parts are out i can get help identifying etc.. i'd rather just get the block separated, knowing what's in there and send it away to get done.

I sound suspicious i know, but i've been burned in the past :/

Unfortunately there are always risks. I nearly bought a dismantled 1275 short motor, almost parted with the cash. My vernier calipers helped me arrive at the conclusion the crank was destined for Simsmetal.

Taking into account what second-hand 1275's seem to fetch, I would rather go for a reconditioned short motor.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.