Faced with the choice of having a new screen fitted by the suppiler or fit it myself.

Because of the headlining fabric being clued around the opening I think a sealant should be used to ensure it is waterproof.

Any sealant names or products that can be recommended?

The cost of the tilt tray to transport the car to the windscreen place ($120), the extra $100 fitting charge makes me think I should try it myself.

BTW - the screen quote (supply only was $130).

Regards and thanks

_________________
Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

black sikaflex is one off the best to use

Have you had a quote for someone to come to you to fit it?

Hey Dave I need a new screen too, where did you get one, and is it untinted?
IMO the best sealant for screens with real rubbers (not them more modern stuck in ones) is good old butyl mastic.
Any auto place sells it, Supercrap, Autobarf etc.
It's called, surprisingly, `windscreen sealant'...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for the replies. Kev - I ordered the front screen through Gosford Windscreens 4324 5377. It has the tint at the top but I believe the non tinted one is also available. Price quoted was supply only $130, instal using my rubber seal and mylar strip another $95. Did ask but they prefer not to offer a mobile service.

Tried shopping around but the other 'major' player in town was $150 more for suppy and instal.

_________________
Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

Fit the rubber into the body 1st and then fit the screen. usually best with 2 people, especially if you havnt done it before. Use plently of soapy water while fitting the screen. Once the screen is in, then go all around the rubber between the body and the rubber with the windscreen sealant. Some times I also put sealant around the rubber between the glass and the rubber, but this is not always necessary. Then fit the chrome strip and let the sealant dry overnight. Remove the excess sealant next day, use more soapy water as it stops the sealant from sticking.

_________________
1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

And please Dont use Silicone.

_________________
1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Dve,
Some handy info posted here.
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... c&start=15

Do it yourself. I have seen what you have done already to that car, you will absolutely have no problems.

I had never done it before and put both in with Number 2 son in a couple of hours. Just follow the tips, it will make it easy.

_________________
"Boris" - '69 Cooper S Mk 2

Thanks - just want to get the thing regoed and on the road!!!

The problem I have is I will be trying to get the screen in just by myself.

_________________
Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

You just need a willing helper inside the car to help push the rubber as you work your magic spatular around.

Hard to manage by yourself. Surely there is an fellow Ausmini'er arount he central coast who could help

_________________
"Boris" - '69 Cooper S Mk 2

Hi michaelb

I'm an amature tatoo artist and a semi professional race car driver ,,,, so I know sweet FA about auto galzing,, can you tell us why silicone is a no no in wind screen rubbers? I know that it don't mix well with painted surfaces and i can explain that in detail that will bore you to tears,, but i was just wondering about what its effect is on rubbers or what ever the problem is...

Thanks mate

The acidity of some silicones is the issue, not their ability to seal. Tha acidity eats into paint, plastics and metal and causes big issues. Especially a no-no around electrical installations for this reason as it eats into the insulation and covers conductors with the green verdigree corrosion.

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

The acidity of some silicones is the issue, not really their ability to seal. The acidity eats into paint, plastics and metal and causes big issues. Especially a no-no around electrical installations for this reason as it eats into the insulation and covers conductors with the green verdigris corrosion. You can get water based silicones if you read the labels carefully.
Also the silicone will pull away from the rubber as it moves and shrinks. The sealing quality is reduced to zero once this occurs.

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.