Just take out off the top arm. It doesn't take that much longer and its not the type of thing you do every weekend. If I was compressing cones everyday I'd buy the compressor but for a swap to hi-lo's its not worth the hassle imo.


dewey

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dwightgunning.com

This is what you have....These came from Marcia and it had a Hole and a nice crack around it..I light tap with a Hammer (No not BFH)
Water geting down inside and eats away at the alloy.
Yours Happen Mine did not


You may also find that the threed is goooone....
So do the top arm trick.
As you have mention at the start about the Knuckel not comming out..Once you get that top arm out...It will give a chance to look at the Bucket it sits in...for ware..I may have some pics of some good Kuckles some ware

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

after looking down athat hole and contemplating, ive decided kevins cone compressor is the way to go (didnt end up needing it last night so i have a bit more time now)

kev, how long is the threaded rod on your cone compressor?

and the pipe/plate/washer is about 3" yeah?

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Expert in training

nah, mine were way cooler than that

its like it dropped down on itself and exploded.. here

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Expert in training

My passenger side one had a hole in it about the size of a 50c piece. I drove around on it for about 2 months before having the hi-los fitted. I'm glad it didn't do what happened to you.


dewey

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dwightgunning.com

It's about 10"
Hi-tensile (machined) threaded rod, 1/2" UNF is what you need.
Yeah to the rest.

Plate has 2 holes to fit over the studs. X-member has reinforcing inside it where these studs/bolts go thru.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Agrred

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Be Warned...If your Trumpets are like that...Whats the thread like Rusted

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

yeah thats what i'm thinking.. the one that i did pull out wasnt actually too bad.. surface rust on the cone (rusted to the trumpet) and the knuckle and trumpet were at one with each other (no chance of seperation they were the same piece of corrosion now)

but the thread on the cone "looked" alright.. however.. the other side? i dunno

ive ordered a cone compressor from karcraft as i could only find a 36" threaded rod.. and that was only grade 6 at $140.. so i gave up on the make me own bit.. they only had unc in grade 8 for some reason

but the karcraft one has metric and unf so it will do and its 113 inc freight to perth

how can i test the thread? it cant be a couple of tonnes of force on the cone, theres only about 200kgs over the wheel.. and at 3-1 ratio.. that would be about 600kg of force still enough to smash my hand however

all i can say is it will only be tools being shoved into that hole untill i have the mini off the road inwhich it will be getting a full subframe rebuild

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Expert in training

The proper tool (and also my homemade one) are designed to keep your hands etc up out of the way.
You do not need grade 8 rod- grade 5 or 6 will be fine, just don't use the cheapo MS rolled thread 1M lengths- they are as strong as chewing gum!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

but what if my trumpet is seized pretty hard to the cone like the one on the opther side? i'll need to get something in there to yank it out

i have to use many leverings of the screwdriver and a heap of WD40 to get 2 out of the three trumpets ive changed so far off the cone

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Expert in training