- Original burstproof pillars and the factory rear seatbelt mounts so it definitely an Aussie Clubby or a very late Mini K. 71-78
- Big tunnel bulge for the rod-change, so that puts it at 74-78
- According to the shape of the cutouts at the top of the side box (the former ashtray hole) this car did not start life with inertia reel belts. Interia belts were fitted 75-78. (See note* below)

Hence I'd date this shell as 74 or early 75 clubby.

*The ashtray cutouts in the top of the side boxes are parallel to the seat crossmember in cars that had an ashtray there. If the car started life with inertia reel front belts the ashtray cutouts went parallel with the length of the car, or 90 degrees to what they do on your shell. This is because the seatbelt reel was mounted inside the side box and the belt exited through the realigned former ashtray hole. This is only Aussie shells, UK were different again.

Hope this helps,

_________________
Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

So why don't the doors seem to fit (see photo)?! Driving me mad!

_________________
Regards,

Mike
"He who dies with the most toys wins."

I agree with bnicho, it's a ~74/75 Clubby body.
Mini door gaps varied widely, I had an S drivers door in mine (1970) that used to hit where yours does.
When I painted the car I refitted the original door, and it clears!

Either the door is out of whack, or the body is. Measure door openings diagonally both sides to check the body.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

unbolt the hinges and sit the door into the door frame. you can hold it into position with some duct tape.
Take a pic of the whole door in position and mark the areas where it is touching.
looking at the pic of the RH side rear quarter panel it looks like it has had a shunt at some stage. the doors are obviously not the originals and as I have found before with shonky repairs they make the door to fit.

_________________
Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

"RH side rear quarter panel shows signs of shunt" - how can you tell? What pic is that?

My guess so far...the RH front body hinge panel has been fixed too close to front and the gap has been created. This then creates the illusion of the door not fitting because you want to push the door forward to close the gap but then the bend in the window frame hits the A pillar.

Mmmm...what now....

_________________
Regards,

Mike
"He who dies with the most toys wins."

IMO the best way is replace the hinge panel. Or do some surgery/additions to it.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

have a look at where the rear seat base is welded to the rear pocket. A bit of a crease and where the quarter panel is fitted to the rear wheel arch.
I had a clubby shell that had been hit on the rear quarter panel, the "B" pillar was pushed forward and the top frame of the door was out of shape. It was repaired like that and when I wrecked the car and swaped the door to another shell it was never going to fit.
As I said ,fit the door into the frame and see where it touches. You may have to re-drill the hinge holes and shape the top to suit.

_________________
Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

The door appeture definitely seems to be out of whack. Just wondering if it would be worthwhile getting someone (crash repairer) with a porta-press to square it up. But maybe there's no one around with those skills anymore in this current throw-away society

_________________
1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

It can be repaired. More importantly then being able to 'porta-power' it is to accurately measure it before you start and as the work is progressing. And to keep checking panel / glass fitment (ie door, windscreen, bonnet etc), It sounds painfully slow and at times it can be, but it can make the difference between writing it off in the shop (I've seen that happen too) and never picking that it has ever been damaged.

I'm no panel beater, however I have worked with and assisted some do some very very extensive / major repairs (write offs - eg the bonnet locking panel in line with the windscreen kinda stuff). It is important not to try to push anything but pull it out in reverse direction to how it was pushed in. Yeah, it looks the same push / pull, but it 'aint.