anyone know if the gaskets between engine and gearbox are the same between remote and rod change gearboxes?

also as i lowered my engine on the gearbox today and after i tightened it all up i noticed the gasket on back side of the engine where rubber o ring is had moved in by 5 mm or so inside the engine, so its overhanging when you look through into the inside of engine.
should i redo it, or will it be ok as is?

i was a little concerned that when it moved in, that i could have blocked a little bit of the main oil drain pipe where rubber washer is.

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77 Leyland Clubman
1293cc, LCB extractors, pulsar dizzy (recurved), cooper s disc brakes, 40DCOE Weber

The early remote shift gaskets were different, but I doubt that you'd get these today, I haven't seen one for a while. To check, lay it over the flange of the gearbox, if there are no gaps then it'll be OK.

I'd suggest splitting the gearbox / engine again to check. The consequenses could cost a lot more that a few gaskets.

i am lucky i decided to split engine and gearbox again gasket had just moved over the oil feed hole, but the even luckier part is whilst the engine was hanging there, i just though i would check big end bolts, and the 2 centre strap bolts where hand tight.

the thing that annoys me about this is the a payed a known mini mechanic to build and assembly the bottom end, cost me alot.

i had only done 150klms and had to pull the engine out for a gearbox problem my fault on that one, but, this mechanic usually does really good work and never had a problem, so could this have just come loose, and what could cause this to happen

i have re tightened the 2 bolts and also put locktight on the bolt, also checked all the other bolts

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77 Leyland Clubman
1293cc, LCB extractors, pulsar dizzy (recurved), cooper s disc brakes, 40DCOE Weber

Just a suggestion for you for the next time you do this job (engine to gearbox). I picked up this tip ages ago and it works well - provided the head etc is off too.......turn the engine upside down and lower the gearbox onto the engine. That way, you ensure that the 'o'ring and the rubber half moon gaskets don't move. Also, the nuts and bolts are a whole lot easier to get to working down on them rather than upside down (so to speak).

Not every-ones way of doing things but it works well.

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

You can also do this trick with the head on, just put an old mattress on the floor and park the upside down motor on it. Tie it to the bench or whatever so it can't fall about.

I used to do this, then I bought an engine stand...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

the first time i turned motor upside down cause head was off, but now head is on and radiator is attached with coolant in it, i will just have to be more careful

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77 Leyland Clubman
1293cc, LCB extractors, pulsar dizzy (recurved), cooper s disc brakes, 40DCOE Weber

I would suggest at the very least having a chat with your mechanic. Don't get 'excited' or abusive, that type of approach is not at all helpful, but I suggest having a polite chat and make him aware, so that your warrenty on his work is preserved and that he may need a quite kick in the pants to pay a bit more attention to what he is doing.....

do you think any damage would have been caused?

the bolts where just tight enough so that the cap was still fully home

does anyone use the lock tabs, or is tightening them up to 85nm as the book says usually enough, or locktite

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77 Leyland Clubman
1293cc, LCB extractors, pulsar dizzy (recurved), cooper s disc brakes, 40DCOE Weber

Lock tabs these days are made from soft rubbish. They do more harm than good. Just oil the threads and do them up (no tabs) to specifications.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Make sure that the main cap bolts are not bottoming out in the threads due to the absence of the lock washer. This was the problem that caused the centre main to shred itself and the crank in the 1275LS motor that I bought to rebuild. The bolts will seem tight because they are bottomed out but they are not clamping the cap.

30 seconds of grinding of the end of the bolt and all is good.

cheers
michael

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

is this common thing to happen?
how do you tell if the bolt is to long, i have tightened it back up and used locktite and it seems tight now

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77 Leyland Clubman
1293cc, LCB extractors, pulsar dizzy (recurved), cooper s disc brakes, 40DCOE Weber

Take the cap off. There is no other way to check this.
Screw each bolt in until it starts to get tight.
Measure the height from block to the underside if the bolt head.
If this is not 1.0mm or more less than the cap height, grind a bit off the bolt.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Haha.......the tips we all pick up from each other. That's a good one Doc.

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/