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 Post subject: 1182cc Ignition Timing
PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 6:39 pm 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2007 1:42 pm
Posts: 903
Location: Hunter Valley, NSW
Trying to fine tune my new engine for its debut run. :D

Consulting the 'black' book and it lists correct timining for a 1098cc engine as 5 degrees BTDC. Is this what I should use?

Details of the engine are:
25D distributor (on points but soon on electronic)
1182 cc
10:1 compression
266 cam
Twin HS2 carbies - M needle
Running on BP Ultimate Fuel.

Cheers

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1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 7:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
With your motor spec, I'd set it about 24-25 degrees BTDC full advance with your shiny new dialback timing light.

Forget the stock book settings, they are BS once the cam is changed. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 8:45 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2007 1:42 pm
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Location: Hunter Valley, NSW
drmini in aust wrote:
With your motor spec, I'd set it about 24-25 degrees BTDC full advance with your shiny new dialback timing light.

Forget the stock book settings, they are BS once the cam is changed. :wink:


Thanks Kev.

Thought as much. The timing light has only 'advance' degrees. So what do I dial in? Is it '-' advance? Notice the numbers run up to about 99 degrees advance. So 24 degrees advance is still 24 degrees BEFORE TDC?

The timing light turned up today and when I tried it it seemed intermittent and the strobe was jumping all over the place. Maybe the plug lead sensor not in the right place. Looked really impressive in the driveway trying to tune the engine but really don't have a clue!

Will dial in 24 degrees and look for the timing mark tomorrow. Have been noticing that it is running hot on the gauge so maybe my current timing is way out?

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1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 9:01 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Set the light at 24 degrees advance on the display. Yes, this this is BTDC.
Then, rev the engine until the pulley or flywheel TDC mark stops advancing (moving)- approx 4000 rpm. If the mark then aligns with the TDC mark, it is at 24 deg BTDC. If not, move dizzy round until it is.

It is normal for it to move about a bit (spark scatter) if using a chain and no tensioner. Even more if you have points.
I run a timing belt kit and there is practically no scatter (with Pulsar dizzy).

If running hot, it's probably a bit retarded. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 9:48 am 
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Location: Toowoomba Region, QLD
I have found before that the light on my timing light goes a bit haywire when I put the inductive thing over the plug lead the wrong way around :oops:

Maybe try that?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 10:35 am 
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It's important to hook the 12V+ clip to somewhere NOT the coil's `+' terminal. Otherwise you get spark pulses going into the timing light 12V supply.
I hook it onto the battery cable lug at the solenoid.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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