Hey peoples,
I have a question that i would like to find out the answer too. I have searched and read many manuals but either:
A) im to dense to get it or
B) it doesn't say it.

When installing a dizzy i get that you get the cam to tdc first before reomving the old Dizzy. I get that then when you install the new dizzy the rotor point to the distributor cap piece that the ht lead goes on to go to cylinder 1 BUT does it matter what distributor cap thingy it points to. DO you just rotate it any old way and then put the leads so that 1 lead is lined up or are is it advisable to do it a certain way??

Am i dumb or does that make sense?

Thanks in advance!
David

It doesn't really matter which way it goes, it will only affect the positioning of the leads. Just remember that the dizzy spins anti-clockwise. However you may encounter problems with say a vacuum advance hitting the oil pipe as you turn it.

If you have a workshop manual it might have a picture in it showing the "correct" positioning of the distributor drive if you want to set it up as per factory. If you do go to move the distributor drive just make sure you don't drop it into the motor. The bolts which bolt the bottom radiator bracket onto the gearbox are a good length and right thread to screw into the drive and pull it out.

thanks for the reply matt.

I over think things a bit i think

If it doesn't say it in the manual it probably doesnt matter

Well that's better than rushing in and not thinking at all!

Cheers

Hey guys and girls. I have been getting a bit stuck with this and wanted to confirm a few things. Just to let you all know, i have searched but haven't found much and i have read the manual's but things are not adding up to well.

OK

1.I wanted to install the new dizzy tonight. I got piston1 ( closest to RAD) to the top and made sure rockers are rocking. This should mean the crank is at tdc right?

2.I took the dixcap off and the rotor was pointing down at about 0530. I was wanting it at 2 ish as i read but no. I thought maybe I was maybe 180 out so rolled 1 over again and this time it was more like 1130. Whats going on with that?

3. A bit of a back ground. Engine was running well before but starter wasn't always catching. Long story short, when i put the starter back in from fixing it the copper wire from the solenoid to the starter motor touched the dizzy and let out an un godly spark? I checked with one of those screwdrivers with the bulb in it and i was getting power from the coil to the dizz but the spark from the leads with puny. A friend that is pretty experienced said he thought it was the elecs in the pulsar dizzy so i got another dizzy... this is where I am now.

Could that spark have blown something out?
What else could it have damaged? ( i know its a wide open question )
Battery?
Coil?

What steps can I take to test and narrow things down.

Thanks in advance. Im a much worse autoelec than a mechanic... (and im a terrible mechanic) so I need all the help I can get

No the valves on No 4 should be on the rock. Give the engine one revolution, this will be your correct place to begin

Hi Norton,

Thanks for that. Yeah I re read the stuff with less sleepy eyes this morning and agree.

I popped the timing cover off and span the engine over to see what is going on this morning. I am a bit of a mechanical dud and havent done this before. On the fw I could see a bunch of marks.
A big white one ( PO did this)
a bunch of dots with what looks like 0, 5, 10 written under them and a small X stamped into the diaghram ( the outer piece with bolts in it)

Which one do i use? for timing. i think its the numbers but not sure. IF this is lined up the rotor should be at 2 yeah?

D

The white mark is the timing mark the PO put there, and if he knew what he was doing that should be correct to use.
The 0 is TDC on #1 and #4 cylinders.
The 5 and 10 are degrees advance BTDC.
Most Minis like an idle advance of around 5-7 degrees, and 25 degrees total when revved (with vacuum advance line disconnected for test).

The X on the diaphragm is just an assembly mark.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Doc and everyone else,

Thanks for your help.
I am usuall a fair bit smarter with things but this makes my puny brain hurt. It will be easier next time though

Any ideas why I would be getting a piss weak spark? Its like being tickled. before it felt like being punched in the face by an angry bear ( do bears punch?)

D

If there is a spark but it's a puny yellow one, fit a new condenser.
Do NOT buy one sold by Bosch... there have been a lot fail lately.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ok. I will look into it and see what it is and if i need one/have one

My old dizz is a pulsar and i got a Lucas A+ 59D4 with Pertronix Ignitor the other day. Would these use a condenser? Is it inbuilt. Man... im out of my depth. Maybe I will get a auto sparky to come look and see whats wrong...

David

Nope if it's electronic, there is no condenser. I assumed you got a points dizzy.
Check the resistance of all the plug & coil leads. If over 5K ohms I would bin them.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

will do.

Thanks muchly Doc and others. Have a good xmas!

If you notice my mood improving its because im at work and have a beer in my hand !! Beer makes anything better.... except driving and hand eye coordination...