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PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 8:35 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
jasonf wrote:
The best distributor is no distributor Go Megajolt :P :wink: :D

Good idea. Provided you are PC literate and want to fiddle. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 10:06 pm 
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All these suggestions, inlcuding 123 (probably one of the best) are all perfectly suited including my suggestion of original points dissy. Morale of the story is how much you want to pay. My modified Pulsar dissy is cheap as chips, works, is the correct curve after modifications and is a BOSCH (lifetime of reliability, easy to source parts). A reconditioned oroginal points Dissy is fine too, all Nb racers run them, some are making 150+bhp so there's no argument there.

A dissy is a dissy is a dissy. I agree electronic has it's advantages over points but you can't compare a 40yr old points dissy with a new electronic dissy. A freshly recond points dissy will outperform a 300,000kms s/h electronic dissy in the same way. A $350 123 dissy with the right curve is the same as a $70 S/H mofied pulsar dissy with the same curve if all vital parts are relatively new or brand new.

Don't believe anyone who says Dissy A will give you more horses than Dissy B if both have the same curves, are reliable and working perfectly. It's all BS if your coil sux, you are using $2 ign cables, running the wrong plugs and the wrong gaps or your timing is out. Same if the rest of the engine is falling to bits.

/end rant

Merry Christmas! hohoho

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K


Last edited by Lillee on Thu Dec 24, 2009 10:26 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 10:18 pm 
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Location: Special Tuning Sydney
bamnfi wrote:
Lillee wrote:
A properly rebuilt with all new parts stock Cooper S dissy.


Thx Lillee.

Who does re-builds? Can a reasonably competent weekend mechanic do it?Are you talking converting to electronic as well?


Give it a go, it's not rocket science. Make sure you have a manual. And yes you can convert to electronic as everyone suggests here. Again morale of the story: how much do you want to spend?

DIY recond of original points dissy, including beer = $$
Ask someone to do it = $$$
Pertronix Ignitor = +$$$
Megajolt = $$$$ :lol:

If you stuff up you can always take it to someone to do...

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2009 7:41 am 
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Having the right curve is all important. I like the concept of the 123, however I suspect none of the 16 curves properly suit a 1275 A series, modified the way many of us do it....

I tried the new Pertronix II dizzy and 40KV coil in my modified 1360 (very briefly) and with the same max advance setting, I lost most of the bottom end and midrange torque. There is simply too much advance in it, so not enough advance low down. It was good above 4000 rpm.
It would probably be fine in a milder A series.

So, I went back to my modified Pulsar, and it hauls ass again. :P

I might just play with a Megajolt system for my 1412 stroker, as it's not in a car yet.

<edit> BTW Lillee your Pulsar dizzy is a Hitachi, NOT Bosch... :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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