i have a bit of a problem i have had my motor rebuilt and put together by a really well

known mini place in adelaide it hasnt even done 800 miles yet its got 15?w-40 oil in it and it leaks like a siv i checked some of the bolts on the timing cover and i reckon you

could almost undo them by hand have they come lose or were they not done up tight enough in the first place??

just wondering if i put 20w - 50 oil in it and do all the bolts up tighter will this stop the problem?

The small timing cover bolts are only 6 ft/lb, the bigger ones are 15 ft/lb.
Don't overdo them or you can bend the cover's flange around the holes.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

its not just them either the diff covers were the same lose do you think if i put thicker oil in it it will slow it down and should my car have a oil catch can its a worked 1380

The diff side covers should be 18ft/lb.
I would drive back to the `Mini shop' and have a whinge...
20W/50 won't leak less. Unless it has 15W/40 synthetic in it (surely not, in a rebuild) then maybe.

No need for a catch can unless you are racing.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If it leaks oil, then it leaks oil,,, changing oils won`t stop it leaking, it will just change what oil leaks out

probably needs to have the gaskets & sur4faces around the leaking area(s) fixed/repaired/replaced & possibly the use of some gasket goo may be needed too

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

yeah i think they stooged on the gasket glue

well my guess is you went to the same bloody place I got mine done. The cheap so and so's didn't put a gasket in the entire thing. My diff side covers leak and they stripped some threads too......

S pose they were about $500 cheaper than most places.. cant really windge..

I also found out later that these rebuilt boxes don't like much power either.

PM if you wanna know if we are talking about the same person..

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That's a sure sign of a cheap re-build. A proper job will cost $1500 at least.
Small bikkies really. Lots of horror stories out there even with late model cars, so don't complain.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

While there really is no excuse for a reco jub that leaks oil, be aware that some of the late diff caps do not use gaskets. There is no tell tale to say if you need to or not, only to put the cap on without gasket or diff and measure the bearing tunnel twice at 90 degrees to check if it is round or out of round by about 7-10 thou.

Yes, all the diff side covers (were it appears you guys are having leaks) do use gaskets.

ok i have finally found where it is leaking oil from my make put some uv dye in the to find out where it was leaking from, it is leaking from the seal around the selector is this easily fixed or engine out job??

That is #1 leak spot on a rodchange box.
You can do it in the car after you disconnect the shifter rod.

Method 1: pry the old one out, knock a new one in.
Method 2: put a new one against the old and knock them both in.
There is room for 3 in there altogether...

There is also an aftermarket anti-leak kit (spacer + O-ring etc) available, I've never found the need for one so dunno if they are any good.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.